Australia -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- Description and travel; Windsor, Edward, Duke of, 1894-1972
The _Renown_ sailed from Fiji the following day. On reaching Samoa she
lay in the open roadstead, facing misty hills, among which rose steep
green cones of long-dead volcanoes. In the middle distance white-crested
waves flicked their tails with a vicious curl in a leaden rain-flogged
sea, which ended in a white line of breakers where the red roofs of the
town of Apia met the beach. The Prince went off in a bounding launch,
accompanied by Colonel R. W. Tate, the administrator. A mile of rough
and tumble brought the friendly shelter of the reef. Here a number of
long low Samoan canoes, with some forty semi-naked paddlers apiece, met
the launch and escorted it with shouting and beating of wooden drums, as
big as bath-tubs, past the rusty skeleton of the German _See Adler_,
wrecked upon the bar in the hurricane of 1899, to a quiet wharf, where
the Prince landed in a bower of greenery and bunting. He was received by
the principal people of the island, including the Chief Judge and other
officers of the New Zealand administration, also a number of
missionaries. Addresses of welcome were presented and the Prince was
conducted on foot over carpets of brown mulberry bark to the reception
by the Islanders themselves. Lines of smiling Samoans, naked save for
loin-cloths of mat and bark and necklaces of crimson pandanus pods the
size of fingers, lined the route and brought deep cries of
"Aue!"--"Welcome!"--from the bottom of their lungs. The procession was
slow and imposing. It ended in a grassy space beneath green coco-nut
palms and white-flowering leva trees. The Prince took the seat of honour
in a decorated booth, surrounded by thousands of Samoans, many of whom
had travelled long distances from their homes by canoe. The ceremonies
began with the presentation of a series of Samoan chiefs, including the
"High Intercessor," Malietoa Tanumafili, brother of the late King
Malietoa Laupepa, and the venerable Tuimale Fana, friend of Robert Louis
Stevenson. He is a sturdy, upstanding figure in the photograph in
"Vailima Letters," broad-faced and well covered and content. That was a
quarter of a century ago. Now the years have bent and dulled him. The
years, and perhaps the loss that dulls the world, for Tusitala tells no
more tales to any of us in this South Sea Island where he lived and
where he knew so well he would die. One thought, if he had been living
now, how glad a hand and how rich a memory would have been added to this
journey, and how brimming a cup of Imperial romance the _Renown_ would
have lifted to Stevenson's lips. But Tusitala could not come to the
Prince; so the Prince went to Tusitala, where he lies on the hill-top
that meets the winds from the sea, and stood there for a while beside
him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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