The laird of Raarsa has sometimes disputed the chieftainry of the clan
with Macleod of Skie, but, being much inferiour in extent of
possessions, has, I suppose, been forced to desist. Raarsa, and its
provinces, have descended to its present possessour, through a
succession of four hundred years, without any increase or diminution. It
was, indeed, lately in danger of forfeiture, but the old laird joined
some prudence with his zeal, and when prince Charles landed in Scotland,
made over his estate to this son, the present laird, and led one hundred
men of Raarsa into the field, with officers of his own family. Eighty-six
only came back after the last battle. The prince was hidden, in his
distress, two nights at Raarsa, and the king's troops burnt the whole
country, and killed some of the cattle.
You may guess at the opinions that prevail in this country; they are,
however, content with fighting for their king; they do not drink for
him. We had no foolish healths. At night, unexpectedly to us, who were
strangers, the carpet was taken up; the fiddler of the family came up,
and a very vigorous and general dance was begun. As I told you, we were
two and thirty at supper; there were full as many dancers; for, though
all who supped did not dance, some danced of the young people who did
not sup. Raarsa himself danced with his children, and old Malcolm, in
his fillibeg, was as nimble, as when he led the prince over the
mountains. When they had danced themselves weary, two tables were
spread, and, I suppose, at least twenty dishes were upon them. In this
country, some preparations of milk are always served up at supper, and
sometimes, in the place of tarts, at dinner. The table was not coarsely
heaped, but, at once, plentiful and elegant. They do not pretend to make
a loaf; there are only cakes, commonly of oats or barley, but they made
me very nice cakes of wheat flour. I always sat at the left hand of lady
Raarsa; and young Macleod of Skie, the chieftain of the clan, sat on the
right.
After supper, a young lady, who was visiting, sung Erse songs, in which
lady Raarsa joined, prettily enough, but not gracefully; the young
ladies sustained the chorus better. They are very little used to be
asked questions, and not well prepared with answers. When one of the
songs was over, I asked the princess, that sat next to me, "What is that
about?" I question if she conceived that I did not understand it. "For
the entertainment of the company," said she. "But, madam, what is the
meaning of it?" "It is a love song." This was all the intelligence that
I could obtain; nor have I been able to procure the translation of a
single line of Erse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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