The houses of inferiour gentlemen are very small, and every room serves
many purposes. In the bed-rooms, perhaps, are laid up stores of
different kinds; and the parlour of the day is a bed-room at night. In
the room which I inhabited last, about fourteen feet square, there were
three chests of drawers, a long chest for larger clothes, two
closet-cupboards, and the bed. Their rooms are commonly dirty, of which
they seem to have little sensibility, and if they had more, clean floors
would be difficultly kept, where the first step from the door is into
the dirt. They are very much inclined to carpets, and seldom fail to lay
down something under their feet, better or worse, as they happen to be
furnished.
The highland dress, being forbidden by law, is very little used;
sometimes it may be seen, but the English traveller is struck with
nothing so much as the _nudité des pieds_ of the common people.
Skie is the greatest island, or the greatest but one, among the
Hebrides. Of the soil, I have already given some account: it is
generally barren, but some spots are not wholly unfruitful. The gardens
have apples and pears, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants,
and gooseberries, but all the fruit, that I have seen, is small. They
attempt to sow nothing but oats and barley. Oats constitute the bread-corn
of the place. Their harvest is about the beginning of October; and,
being so late, is very much subject to disappointments from the rains
that follow the equinox. This year has been particularly disastrous.
Their rainy season lasts from autumn to spring. They have seldom very
hard frosts; nor was it ever known that a lake was covered with ice
strong enough to bear a skater. The sea round them is always open. The
snow falls, but soon melts; only in 1771, they had a cold spring, in
which the island was so long covered with it, that many beasts, both
wild and domestick, perished, and the whole country was reduced to
distress, from which I know not if it is even yet recovered.
The animals here are not remarkably small; perhaps they recruit their
breed from the mainland. The cows are sometimes without horns. The
horned and unhorned cattle are not accidental variations, but different
species: they will, however, breed together.
October 3rd. The wind is now changed, and if we snatch the moment of
opportunity, an escape from this island is become practicable; I have no
reason to complain of my reception, yet I long to be again at home.
You and my master may, perhaps, expect, after this description of Skie,
some account of myself. My eye is, I am afraid, not fully recovered; my
ears are not mended; my nerves seem to grow weaker, and I have been
otherwise not as well as I sometimes am, but think myself, lately,
better. This climate, perhaps, is not within my degree of healthy
latitude.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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