The coat remained long to the knees, but took a greater fullness in the side pleats of the skirt. Large buttons and buttonholes, 3 inches long, are seen, with the same on the cuff, which was worn very large, often 9 inches broad, and mostly of a curved outline, and of another coloured brocade; a tight undersleeve is also seen with these. The coat was sometimes heavily decorated with needlework or braids of gold down the front, pockets, seams, and cuffs. The pocket was wide and set higher in the skirt, and the back opening of coat was decorated by several horizontal braids to the two side pleats. A long, full-skirted waistcoat, of rich materials or needlework, was at times braided and fringed at the skirt with gold, the pockets covered with a large flap, and five buttons fastened it or were placed as decorations just below it. The front buttons were often reduced to four at the waist, as it was still fashionable to show the lawn shirt. Breeches were of the same cut as in the former reign, with five or six side buttons at the knee, and stockings with embroidered clocks were worn rolled over outside the breeches as before. Shoes were square at the toes and not quite so long, while the heels were still rather heavy, and red was the mode. They had a high square top at the front instep, and buckles fastened the latchets. Muffs were often carried by the dandies, and walking-sticks, with tassel and loop, were slung on the arm; besides a sword, which, passing through the side pleats and out at the back, helped to set out the coat, which was often stiffened in the skirts. Gloves, with short gauntlets very angular or curved in shape, were trimmed with gold fringe; the backs were also richly embroidered with gold or silver. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. FEMALE. [Illustration: FIG. 86.--1725-1750.] [Illustration: Plate XXI.--23 Boots and Shoes. From 1800-75. 1. 1800-1820. 2. " 3. 1810-1828. 5. 1820-1830. 8. " 9. 1820-1830. 10. " 13. 1830-1855. 16. " 16A. " 7. 1850-1865. 14. " 15. " 4. " 6. " 17. " 12. " 21. 1860-1875. 11. " 18. " 20. " 19. " 22. " ] [Illustration: FIG. 87.--Period 1725-1750.] [Illustration: FIG. 88.--Modes, 1750-1770.] [Illustration: FIG. 89.--Various Styles in Cut Back of Bodice.]