Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The hair was very simply gathered from the forehead and taken up to a
knot of curls at the back. Occasionally a group of curls was allowed to
fall behind, or a curl was arranged to fall on one shoulder, and
waved curls of the Queen Anne type were still seen on many people. Caps,
with long dropping points in front, sometimes tied under the chin or
with long lappets at the back, were the chief favourites, also a small
frilled cap. Shallow-crowned straw hats with various widths of brim;
hoods and capes, both short and long, are seen, besides light silks
draped from the hair to the waist, feathers, flowers, and ribbons being
worn in the head-dress. Richly embroidered aprons were worn with the
finest dresses.
The sack-back dress was very full, and started right across the
shoulders in two double box-pleats, which were kept trim by being sewn
flat for two to four inches down. Sleeves to the elbow were rather full,
and gathered at the shoulders, with a square cuff often decorated with a
bow in front, and a fan of lace, sometimes in several rows, fell from
beneath. Sleeves finishing in a shaped edge are occasionally seen. The
skirts were made for the very round hoop setting, and were gathered in
flat pleats on either hip. A wide pleat or two came from the shoulders
down the front sometimes as a continuation of the sack-back. These
pleats, meeting at the waist, formed a =V= shape, which was filled by an
embroidered stomacher, or made of the same material, crossed by bands,
bows, or rows of lace. The flat front pleat was occasionally
embroidered, and gradually widened to the bottom of the skirt. Very
pointed toes to the shoes, and high heels, with tied or buckled
latchets, are seen, the tops of the front often being shaped into four
points.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. MALE.
Long, full wigs are still seen amongst older men, but several new shapes
appear as illustrated (Fig. 90), and the black bow and bag became very
large; a black ribbon attached to it, with a bow in front, came round
the neck. We also see the ends of the wig made into a long, tight
pigtail. Hats were of the same three-cornered shape, rather fuller in
size, and the feathered edging was still favoured. A hat of the type of
Fig. 105 was also worn; and the loose cap with a tassel was put on when
the wig was removed (see Fig. 104).
[Illustration: FIG. 90.--Wig types, 1st half 18th century.]
[Illustration: FIG. 91.--List of Dated Shoes and Boots.
No.
1. 1700-1750.
2. 1700-1780.
3. 1700-1780.
4. 1700-1750.
5. 1700-1760.
6. 1720-1780.
7. 1690-1720.
8. 1700-1750.
9. 1700-1740.
10. 1740-1760.
11. 1702-1720.
12. 1730-1750.
13. 1760-1800.
14. 1730-1760.
15. 1740-1770.
16. 1770-1780.
17. 1740-1780.
18. 1786-1796.
19. 1774-1784.
20. 1775-1790.
21. Sole of shoe No. 22.
22. 1776-1800.
23. 1780-1790.]
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