Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
Hoods and capes or cloaks, and long black fichus or wraps, were the
chief coverings, as the head-dress did not allow of hats being worn, but
with the small frilled caps a little straw hat, or a low-crowned felt
with a largish brim, are seen, and a small lace frill round the neck
began to appear. Bodices with a low curved neck often had a short skirt
or shaped pieces, as well as a shaped short sleeve over a gathered lawn
one, while many wore long sleeves to the wrist, and a waistbelt is
sometimes noted. There was also the sleeve spreading in width to the
elbow, with a turned-up square cuff. The front of the bodice may be
remarked with bands fastening across, and this became a feature in many
dresses later in this century, otherwise it set closely over the
shoulders to a =V= shape at the waist, and was filled with a stomacher of
fine needlework, bows, or the ends of the lawn fichu laced or caught in
by a big bow. A full, loose gown, with the fullness pleated to back and
front, came in, the front being held by a bow and the back allowed to
fall loose or crossed with a large bow at the back of waist, as in the
museum specimen, Fig. 85. This became the more elaborate sack-back
dress.
[Illustration: FIG. 84.--Period 1700-1725.]
The skirts began to be set out in a bell form, and trains were in much
favour; the overskirts were parted in front, and many looped up to the
back in a similar manner to the last reign. Small aprons of fine
embroidery were worn with the best of dresses, and embroidered pockets
are seen when the skirts were thrown back. Petticoats of fine quilting
became much appreciated, and tall sticks were carried by ladies. Pointed
shoes with high heels and latchets tied or buckled, the top of the
fronts being mostly cut into four points, or they had a square finish.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ANNE. MALE.
The wigs of the full ringlet style were still the fashion, but a simpler
character is noticeable, the hair being combed back off the forehead and
allowed to fall in looser waves. But many began to set a mode of smaller
"coiffure," with their own hair caught in curls by a bow at the back,
and curls over each ear. Powder came into use with the smart set, and a
big bow and bag to finish the back of wig appeared, giving a smarter
appearance to the white hair.
[Illustration: Plate XX.--
(_a_) Gold-embroidered Muslin Dress. 1795-1805.
(_b_) Nine Aprons. Between 1690 and 1850.
(_c_) Dress of Spotted Stockinette. 1795-1808.]
[Illustration: FIG. 85.--Bodice types. 1700-1725.]
The hat, sometimes of white felt, was the same three-cornered type,
edged with feathers and banded with broad gold braids or silver lace.
The neckwear was a bind of lawn, with a long fall finished with lace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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