Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The neck had the same lawn bind with a long lace ruffle, and the coat
the same full cut as in the last reign, and the large rounded cuff
was still in favour, but many varieties of size were now worn. A
vertical pocket is seen occasionally on cloth coats, also a cape and
turned-down collar are noted, while several appear with a very small
upright collar. Buttons were still worn on some coats, right down the
front; but on many coats the buttons stopped level with the pocket.
A short-skirted coat came in amongst the dandies towards the end of the
reign, and was stiffened out on the skirts; these mostly had a tighter
sleeve and cuff. The same decorations continued in use. Waistcoats were
much the same, and were cut to the length of the coats, or about four
inches shorter; they were buttoned higher, the lace often falling
outside.
Breeches were the same in cut, fastened with six buttons and a buckle at
the side of the knee. The stockings, usually decorated with clocks, were
still worn rolled outside the knee amongst smart people. The stiff high
boots or gaiters generally had a full curved piece at the top, and short
gaiters to the calf are also to be noticed.
The shoes were square-toed or of a roundish form, with a short or
rather high square front, and heels of various heights. Patches and
make-up were used by the fops, and swords and sticks carried, the latter
being very high, to 46 inches.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. FEMALE.
The hair was treated in much the same manner as with George I up to the
end of this reign--gathered back from the forehead to a bunch of curls
at the back. The small hats and caps, often worn together, continued of
the same character; the dresses also remained similar in cut. The
sack-back dress was supreme in the fifties, when it was set with
panniers, together with the hoops, but the latter were not so much worn
towards the end of this reign, except for the "grand dress." Quilted
petticoats were much worn, but flounces are not a feature on the skirts
till the latter part of this period. The simpler dress was of various
lengths, and was at times worn quite short up to 1740. The corset bodice
was still in use, with lawn sleeves: square cuffs and lace ruffles held
the lead throughout this time, but the fan-shaped sleeve finish to
the elbow, in the same material as the dress, began to appear about
1750, generally with a waved or scalloped edge. Pointed toes and
high-heeled shoes continued, with either tied or buckled latchets, and
long gloves and mittens were in use.
[Illustration: FIG. 92.--Three hoops and four pannier forms.
Types 1725-1760.
1750-1780.
1740-1770.
1700.
1720-50.
1735-65.
1780-90.]
[Illustration: FIG. 93.
_Quilted designs on Petticoats, 18th century._]
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. MALE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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