Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
Wigs with double points at the back, short curled or of long pigtailed
shapes, some with side curls, others curled all round the front, were
worn. Large bows and bags, or no bows, finished the back hair, and the
bow to the front of the neck was in use from the early part of this
reign. Long coats, as in the last reign, and short coats with stiffened
skirts were used; many with braided seams and fronts, also a braided
opening at the back. Large round cuffs and big square ones, caped coats,
and coats with turn-down collars were all in the mode, and the
"maccaroni" fashions started about 1760, with absurdities in small hats,
clubbed wigs, and very short coats. High sticks and crook sticks, canes
and swords continued in use.
[Illustration: Plate XXII.--
(_a_) Linen Dress. 1795-1808.
_Pattern of Bodice, see p. 316._
(_b_) Silk Bodice. 1825-30.
(_c_) Silk Bodice. 1818-25.]
[Illustration: FIG. 94.--Wig types, second half 18th century.
1740-1765.
1765-1795.]
The pocket flaps were of a curved form, with a rounded centre still,
and many of the shoes had a high square front, high heels, and square
toes: according to the caricature prints of Boitard, the fashionable
hats were smaller in 1730, and much larger ten years later; very full
skirts at the former date, and smaller and less stiffened at the latter.
Stockings were often still worn outside the knee. Shoes reached an
extreme high square front at the latter date, and gloves with curved or
square cuffs are to be noted.
[Illustration: FIG. 95.--First Half Eighteenth Century.]
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE III TO 1800. FEMALE.
This long reign, like that of Queen Victoria, embraces several changes
of style. Up till about 1785 white powder was still used for the hair,
reaching its fullest extravagance in the middle of the seventies, set
with pearls, bandeaus, caps, lace, flowers and feathers, and about 1776
the top was widened considerably. The front hair, gathered from the
forehead, was pressed in a forward curve over a high pad, with one to
three curls at the sides and one at the shoulders, the back hair being
arranged in a loose loop, curled on the top and set with a large bow at
the back; a small round hat with very small low crown (usually decorated
with flowers and silks gathered into puffs, or ribbons and small
feathers) was tilted right on the front. About 1780 large mob caps with
a big bow on the front came in, and were generally worn together with
the tall-crowned hat or the large-brimmed hat in favour at this time. A
cape with smallish hood worn in the earlier reigns was supplanted about
1777 by the calash, a huge hood set out with whalebone which came
to cover the full head-dresses. The heavier caped or hooded cloak,
sometimes with side opening for the arms, and usually trimmed with fur,
still remained in use to 1800.
[Illustration: FIG. 96.--Costume notes, 1770-1780.]
[Illustration: Plate XXIII.--
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