Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The wigs, which were rather high in the front of the crown in the
earlier part, began to cast off the most eccentric forms, and became
just curled, rather full at the sides, and tied with a bow at the back:
dull pink powder became a favoured hue from about 1780; most people
began to return to their own hair, and one might see many without long
hair in the nineties. The last type of dressing the hair in imitation of
the wig form was a long, tightly braided pigtail at the back, with one
or even two side curls over the ear, and side whiskers were allowed to
fill up to them; thus when the short hair set the fashion, side whiskers
came in.
Hats were still worn of the three-cornered shape, but the favourites
became a front cockade hat and a hat with a rounded crown and rather
wide brim, sometimes turned up on one side; a short type of top-hat was
also often seen, and later became the fashion. The same lawn and lace
cravat developed into more of a plain white stock, with a frilled
shirt-front.
The coat was worn much tighter in the arms and was smartly cut, with the
fronts running away into a narrow tailed skirt. The pockets often began
to take a plain square form, with or without buttons; the buttons on the
front of the coat stopped at the waist--many cuffs are seen without
them; and the side pleats, set more to the back, were pressed and
narrower. Both the plain and turn-over collars were set up high in the
neck, large cut-steel buttons were introduced in the early seventies,
and many fancy china buttons, besides the gilt silver and paste ones
were in use. A new type of coat made its appearance with a high
turn-over collar and large lapels, and a sudden cut-in of the coat-front
high in the waist, giving a very long-tailed effect to the skirt. A cuff
shape with these was mostly made in one with the sleeve and buttoned at
the side towards the back, and when the cuff was additional, it seldom
had buttons, as formerly.
A greatcoat with one, two, or three capes was a picturesque garment, and
a leather-covered bottle was often carried when riding a distance, of
which I have an example in my collection.
[Illustration: FIG. 105.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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