But we have to consider milk as a beverage, more than as a food, and,
as a drink, it is comparatively a failure, as to most people it is
indigestible, if taken in any quantity. It may, however, be taken with
comparative impunity as skim milk, _i.e._ when deprived to a very large
extent of its fat, and of a hot day, for a perfect thirst quencher,
let us commend slightly acidulated butter milk. Milk has very great
disadvantages as a beverage: first, that it will not keep good any time,
unless chemicalized by salicylic acid, borax, liquor potassæ, or some
other bedevilment, except as condensed milk, which is milk with much of
its water evaporated, and sugar added. This, however good it may be as
a substitute for fresh cow’s milk, where such is not attainable, can
hardly be called a drink. Secondly, milk, in common with all fatty animal
substances, has a tendency to absorb any odour which may come in contact
with it, and is a ready vehicle for the seeds of disease, especially the
microbes of fever or cholera.
It is singular that milk has not been made into more _drinks_. Of modern
times we have soda and milk, or aërated milk and water, and in the
pastoral times of the last century, the times of Corydon and Phyllis,
Chloe and Strephon, it was _de rigueur_ to indulge in “syllabubs”
whenever the nearest approach to rurality, in the shape of a grass field,
and a cow, presented itself. Whoever tastes a syllabub now? Ask fifty
people—forty-nine at least, will answer that they have never partaken
of the delicacy, and the vast majority will be totally ignorant even of
its composition. It was made of milk, milked from the cow into a bowl
containing mashed fruit, such as gooseberries, and sugar, or else, wine
or beer. The great thing was to make it froth, as we may see in the
following recipe for an Ale Syllabub, which our forefathers considered as
the _ne plus ultra_ of a syllabub.
“No Syllabubs made at the milking pail,
But what are composed of a pot of good ale.”
“Place in a large bowl, a quart of strong ale or beer, grate into this
a little nutmeg, and sweeten with sugar: milk the cow rapidly into the
bowl, forcing the milk as strongly as possible into the ale, and against
the sides of the vessel, to raise a good froth. Let it stand an hour, and
it will be fit for use. The proportion of milk, or of sugar, will depend
upon the taste of the drinker, who will, after a trial or two, be able
to make a delightful beverage. Cider may be used instead of malt liquor
for those who object to the alcoholic strength of the ale, or a bottle of
wine.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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