_Ratafias_ are called by du Verger _liqueurs de conversation_, and _eau clairettes_ and _hypoteques_, an old term of which Menage expresses himself unable to find the derivation as applied to a liqueur. The Master Distiller considers them preferable to spirituous liqueurs. Procope, the ancient Master of Paris, includes under this term liqueurs, or syrups, as we should say, of cherries, strawberries, gooseberries, apricots, peaches, and other fruits. He it was who first proposed the pressure of the fruits, without infusing them entire. Some years afterwards, Breard, one of the chiefs of the fruitery of Louis XIV., gave these liqueurs the name of _Hypoteques_ to distinguish them. The products both of Procope and Breard were of the highest excellence. “‘I,’ says du Verger, ‘have always considered Procope’s Ratafias as finer and more delicate, those of Breard softer and more flowing; but,’ he adds, ‘as tastes differ, both their Ratafias have their approvers and their critics. It is difficult to equal them in cold countries, either in taste or in smell.’” They are called _Liqueurs of conversation_, because, according to this authority, in talking after meals, you may drink of them three or four times as much as of other liqueurs without fear of any inconvenience. Nay, they nourish and fortify the stomach, and in addition to being pleasant to the palate, are good friends of the liver. The first _Ratafia_ was called _Eau de Cerises_, or cherry water. The kernels should be added to the juice of the fruit with cinnamon and mace in small quantities. This renders the composition beneficent, strengthens the brain, and banishes the vapours. The _Eau clairette de framboises_ is also composed of cherries, though a few strawberries are added to give the dominant flavour. It should, therefore, says the Master Distiller, be rather called _Eau clairette framboisée_. _L’eau clairette de groseilles_ has a specific virtue against biliousness. _L’eau clairette de grenade_ is the most agreeable of _Ratafias_, but has an astringent property. _L’eau clairette de coings_ is still more estimable than the preceding, and imparts a new activity to the limbs. _Eau clairette de Chamberri_ should be made of the ripest black grapes, a small quantity of spirit of wine, a little sugar, and other ingredients. In addition to giving an appetite, it rejoices the heart. The longer it is kept, as in the case with all _Ratafias_, the better. The white _Ratafias_, or _Hypoteques_, should be mixed with cinnamon, mace, cloves, and coriander. Under these circumstances they render the blood balsamic. The best fruits for white _Ratafias_ are oranges, peaches, and apricots.