Due South; or, Cuba Past and PresentBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
Due South; or, Cuba Past and Present
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Cuba
The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of
Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have
never seen equaled elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris
colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is
ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are
virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and
double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be
measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical
ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as
ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to
the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much
used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being
curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors
which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was
closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited
by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if
reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple.
Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by
alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a
dull, lustreless gray.
The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table
extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches
resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus
insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in
the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the
large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block
from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh
sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies.
The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name
the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the
government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to
pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The
boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the
government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine
lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but
even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost
precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the
Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the
stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting
for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long
suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have
learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make
no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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