Due South; or, Cuba Past and PresentBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
Due South; or, Cuba Past and Present
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Cuba
Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. --
Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game.
-- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The
Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards Compared.
-- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the
Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. --The Monteros. --
Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central
Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original
Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince.
The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only
one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of.
It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches
are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present
notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique
vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its
extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the
peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At
first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards
in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to
ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is
most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the
deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently
its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every
impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is
very light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When
traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast
of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and
traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the
left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the
vehicle.
If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and
there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often
added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the
shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the
calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great
pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented
for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes
even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed
negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or
silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the
knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more
especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the
freight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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