In his _Journey in the Year 1793 through Flanders, Brabant and Germany_,
the Rev. C. Este says: “The town is tolerably well built as to the walls
of the houses; but their windows and doors are after the manner of the
French. The lower windows are also deformed with iron bars, offensive
even beyond the eye, as implying something wrong in the place, either
from real danger, or from false fear.
“The buildings at Bruxelles compare in one point advantageously with
Paris. For the houses having fewer floors, but three or four, generally
have but one family under one roof.... The places for a traveller to
see, if he has time, are the Archduke’s Château de Schoemburg (in the
village of Lack), and the villa of M. Walkiers the banker. They are not
half an hour’s drive from Bruxelles and close to one another; besides
the way is through the _Allée Verte_, those beautiful vistas of elms and
limes, where the canal goes to join the Scheldt....
“The Archduke’s _château_ is a modern building, Ionic without,
Corinthian within, with two fronts of 260 feet, the depth 150, with a
central portico at the entrance and a bow in the centre behind. The
effect of the building at a distance is gay and imposing enough; when
close to it the effect is maimed by bad figures at the top of the
building, and the pediment of the portico being filled by a clock, which
seems fit only where the character of the building is appropriate, as at
Inigo’s church at Covent Garden, to simplicity and use. The gate of
approach, loaded with bad ornaments, cupids and what not, is at once
lofty and trifling, elaborate and dull.
“In the internal distribution the best rooms are forty feet square—a
dining-room 52 by 40—a chapel 27 by 22—and the state room a circle 54
feet in diameter; the dome is the ceiling of the room, and midway
between the bottom and the top there is a small gallery on twelve
Corinthian pillars. The floors in the other rooms are inlaid mixture,
angular shapes of oak, mahogany and petrified cedar. In the circular
room the floor is shewy, formed of various marbles. There are five
windows, which should have five looking-glasses opposite—there are but
two, with three glass doors, but not looking-glass. The looking-glasses
are the manufacture of Venice. And these, eight feet by six, are among
the largest ever blown there. For that is the Venetian process; not by
the mould as in France and England.
“There are few objects of art. The only pictures are four large ones by
De Lance of Antwerp. They are mythological subjects; of course, the
worst in the world. Le Roi of Namur supplied the five feet full length
of the Virgin in the chapel. It is not bad statuary, for it has, which
is very rare, thought and emotion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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