Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
But, during the last few years, the troublesome and tedious
mordanting processes necessary for the proper development of color by
the Alizarine dyes, have been replaced, for craftsmen, and, indeed,
by most professional dyers, by the much simpler and shorter processes
of vat dyeing. As long as Indigo was the sole representative of the
class, it was of very little use for silk dyeing. But since the
introduction of the splendid series of new vat dyes, the Algol, Ciba,
Helindone, Indanthrene, and Thio Indigo colors, which, dyed in a
single bath, give a whole range of brilliant shades, wonderfully fast
to light and to washing, the necessity for mordant colors has very
largely disappeared.
DYEING SILK WITH VAT DYES
It must always be remembered when working with silk, wool, leather,
or any other animal material, that such materials are extremely
sensitive to the action of alkalies, especially when hot or caustic,
while they are but slightly injured, if at all, by the action of
dilute acids. For this reason it is always better, whenever possible,
to dye silk with the Acid dyes or the Salt dyes, in an acid or
neutral bath, rather than to use dyestuffs like the Vat dyes or the
Sulphur colors, which need an alkaline dye-liquor. Furthermore,
the silk is likely to have a more brilliant lustre when dyed with
a color which fastens to it by chemical affinity, from a solution,
rather than one where the color is fixed because the oxygen of the
atmosphere changes it into an insoluble powder, while in the pores of
the silk. It is, however, perfectly possible to dye silk full shades
with the Vat dyes and even—though this is not often advisable—with
the Sulphur dyes, by using some simple precautions.
The best Vat dyes for silk are Indigo itself, and its substitution
products, like Brom-Indigo, _Elberfeld_, or the Thio Indigo dyes,
_Kalle_, or else the rather closely related colors like the
Helindones, _Metz_, and the Ciba colors, _Klipstein_. It is of
importance to use only those which are shown in the table on page
102, as dyeing in a cold, or at most, a lukewarm bath.
The dye-bath should be made with a considerable amount of dyestuff,
so as to avoid the necessity of keeping the goods in it long. And
the amount of caustic alkali should be kept as low as possible,
consistent of course with dissolving the reduced dyestuff. It has
been found in practice that the presence of glue or gelatine in the
bath, or even of glucose (molasses, corn syrup, Karo syrup, etc.),
protects the silk, wool, and other animal fibres greatly from the
action of alkalies. It should, therefore, be added in quantities of
two or three large tablespoonfuls to the gallon of dye-liquor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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