Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
In general, these artificial silks, manufactured as they are from
wood pulp and other vegetable materials, are to be dyed with the
Salt, Sulphur, or Vat dyes, care always being taken to expose them to
the action of hot dye-liquors as short a time as possible. The Salt
dyes are less apt to interfere with the brilliant lustre, but the
Sulphur and Vat dyes have the great advantage of dyeing in a cold or
lukewarm bath, without any loss in fastness.
The Chardonnet silk has a special affinity for the Basic dyes, and
in the trade is usually dyed both light and dark shades with these
coloring matters, without previous mordanting, in a slightly acid
bath. This practice, however, while simple and easy, is not to be
recommended. For the Basic dyes, with but few exceptions, fugitive
under all circumstances, are particularly sensitive to light, when
dyed in light shades, upon such a brilliant and almost transparent
medium as this is. On the other hand, articles made of artificial
silk, being easily injured by rain, are not so liable to be exposed
to the open weather as some other less delicate materials.
The Viscose and Elberfeld silks (Glanzstoff) have less affinity for
the Basic dyes, and dye more readily with the Salt and Sulphur colors
than the Chardonnet silk, made from gun cotton. But it is perfectly
possible to dye the latter also with fast colors of the Salt,
Sulphur, or Vat classes, providing large amounts of dyestuff are used
to bring up the shade. Indeed it is poor economy to be sparing of the
coloring matter, when working with any kind of artificial silk. For
speed is essential, and the dyer who lets his material remain long in
the dye-bath is liable to get into difficulties.
The artificial silk, after dyeing, should be finished much like
natural silk, by rinsing and then passing through a bath containing
some olive oil, emulsified in a weak bath of soda ash. This increases
the lustre. It should also be dried at a fairly low temperature and,
while drying, kept stretched out by hanging a wooden or glass rod in
the loop of the hanging skein, or some similar device, taking care to
avoid strain great enough to pull apart the weakened fibre.
When dyeing this material great care should also be taken in tying up
the individual skeins and in handling them. Turn them in the dye-bath
as little as possible consistent with even dyeing. The threads,
unless very tightly spun, are constantly liable to come untwisted,
and the knots to untie, causing much annoyance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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