Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
[Illustration: FIG. 8—FOLDING THE CLOTH
FIG. 9—STARTING TO TIE
FIG. 10—CENTRE PORTION TIED
TIED AND DYED WORK]
=Dyeing Process.=—Now for the dyeing process. Of course, for
practise, the craftsman will use cotton as his raw material, in the
form of muslin, cheesecloth, scrim, or best of all, light grades of
mercerized cotton, and hence will use the various cotton dyestuffs.
The Salt colors are hardly advisable, because though fast to light
they are not all fast to washing unless well boiled on, and that
means that, unless tied extremely fast and tight, the color would
be bound to penetrate, and wipe out the design. The Sulphur colors
and the Vat colors are the best for the purpose—for they can be dyed
cold or lukewarm, without injuring the fastness of the dye, and give
colors fast both to light and to washing. In general, it is easier
to get even shades with the Sulphur colors, and their shades are
soft and pleasing, but while fast, they are not as fast as the Vat
dyes, and it is impossible to get a decent scarlet with them. The
skilful dyer will, of course, select his class to suit the shade he
is trying to get and also to meet the requirements about fastness.
But, in general, he will use the Salt colors for covering and shading
the patterns produced with either the Sulphur or the Vat dyes. When
using the oxidation dyes, like the Sulphur or Vat colors, plenty of
time must be given for the dyestuffs to oxidize and set before they
are untied. But, on the other hand, directly they are once untied
it is important to wash off the loose dye-liquor from the cloth,
and especially from the tied-in portions, as soon as possible after
untying, otherwise some dye-liquors that may have soaked in without
having had a chance to oxidize, will, when exposed to air, suddenly
fix themselves and obscure or ruin the pattern.
After attaining some skill in this process the craftsman is urged to
try it on more important materials like silk. Most beautiful effects
can be, and are being produced by this means, on soft delicate scarfs
made of Chinese or Indian silks. The Acid colors are, of course, used
for this, and as they take so readily on silk, the possibilities of
shading and over-shading different portions of the design, or of
adding a touch of color here and there where it seems desirable,
offer infinite possibilities to an artistic workman. The combinations
of color that can be produced are infinite, and the curious blending
of regularity and irregularity, in the designs and figures, renders
it a most attractive process to practise with.
One great attraction about it is the sense of suspense, and the
impossibility of telling just what effect is being produced, until
the knots are all untied, and the cloth washed off and opened out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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