Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
The most useful dyes for this purpose are the Sulphur dyes, which,
as the student will remember, can be applied in the cold, with very
short exposure to the dye-liquor, and are fixed firmly by exposure
to the air, giving results fast to light and extremely fast to
washing. A paste made from wheat flour, thickened a little with an
inert powder, like powdered chalk or zinc oxide, will work fairly
well, acting as a purely mechanical protection to the fibre. But much
better results can be obtained by adding to the paste as much as it
will absorb of the easily soluble chemical, zinc sulphate, which acts
chemically in resisting the action of these particular dyestuffs.
The Sulphur colors, as before explained, are kept in solution in
the dye-bath, by the presence of sodium sulphide, and when this is
absent or is destroyed by any cause, the dyestuff is precipitated
as an insoluble, inert powder. Now, when zinc sulphate comes in
contact with sodium sulphide it at once decomposes the latter,
forming a white precipitate, zinc sulphide, which has no action at
all on either dyestuff or cloth. Accordingly a paste containing zinc
sulphate has far greater efficiency as a resist than any mixture that
acts purely mechanically.
Resist stencil pastes can be obtained, in tubes, at moderate prices,
but can also be readily prepared by making not too stiff a paste,
with wheat flour thoroughly boiled with a saturated solution of zinc
sulphate instead of with water, and then stirring into this paste
some powdered chalk or zinc oxide, until of the proper consistency
for stencilling.
To use this paste, the cloth, as usual, should be washed free from
dressing, and after being smoothed with a hot iron, should be
slightly dampened. The paste is then brushed through the stencil on
to, and into, the cloth, which is then allowed to dry. The dye-bath
should then be prepared of Sulphur dyes carefully dissolved, in a
separate cup or saucepan, in a hot solution of sodium sulphide and
sodium carbonate (soda), and added to cold water in the dye-bath.
A few drops of “Turkey red oil” added to the dye-bath helps to
prevent a thick scum from forming on top of the liquor, while the
addition of a tablespoonful of salt dissolved in a little hot water
helps the rapidity and depth of the dyeing.
Plenty of color should be used excepting for very light shades, for
the dyeing should be done just as quickly as possible. For silk some
syrup should be added.
The stencilled cloth is then quickly moistened in cold water, placed
in the dye-bath, kept there two or three minutes, below the level of
the liquid; it is then taken out, the liquor drained off, and after a
minute or two, wrung off; the cloth is then shaken out, and exposed
to the air, for some ten minutes, to set the color. After this it is
well washed in a boiling soap bath, and, as the paste washes out, the
stencilled pattern will show light against the dark background.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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