Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
=Javanese Practice.=—Detailed information about the history,
technique, and designs of the Javanese process has been set down in a
monumental work: “Die Batikkunst in Niederlandisch Indien,” published
in Harlem under the auspices of the Dutch Government in 1899.
Perhaps of more interest to the non-scientific reader is a short but
well-written account of “Battack Printing in Java,” read before the
Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society in 1906 by an English
chemist, John Allan, who spent several months among the natives,
studying the process at first-hand.
According to these authorities the Javanese and, indeed, most of
the natives of Malaysia, wear garments simple enough in style and
cut, but elaborately decorated with great variety of both color and
design. The principal garment, common to both men and women, is the
_sarong_, in shape not unlike a large and elongated bath towel,
which, according to the desire and sex of the owner, may be made to
serve as trousers or skirt, overcoat or blanket, and is the universal
bathing costume. It is made of calico, rarely homespun, almost always
imported from Lancashire or Holland, and as the natives, both men
and women, are exceedingly fond of bathing, the colors must be fast
enough to stand constant exposure to water as well as to the fierce
tropical sun.
They also wear head-dresses made from squares of calico, dyed with
square centres of plain color and elaborately decorated at the sides;
and _slendangs_, a kind of girdle or shawl, usually made of silk and
less elaborately decorated. The costume is completed, for full-dress
occasions, by a thin shirt or chemise and a light jacket.
For producing the designs on the sarongs, the process of wax resist
is almost always employed by the natives. Unfortunately of late years
the Javanese market has been flooded with an immense quantity of
cheap and, generally, neatly printed goods made in Manchester and in
Holland in rough imitation of the native styles. So it is not an easy
matter, nowadays, even in Java, to get genuine specimens of Batik
work. These can always be recognized, however, on careful examination
by the peculiar and characteristic odor and “feel” of the wax left
behind in the cloth, and, better, by the fine irregular “crackle”
formed in the dye-pot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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