Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
The dyeing directions for batiked goods are the same as for ordinary
calico. The materials, well wetted, are immersed, drained, wrung,
and oxidized as usual. The wax is usually removed in one or more
boiling soap baths, which help as well to set the color and to remove
unattached dyestuff.
(b) _Silk._—Silk, as in other processes, can be dyed in several
different ways, according to the fastness to light and washing
desired.
The easiest way, especially when trying to match shades, is to dye,
with the Acid dyes, in a soap bath acidified with a little sulphuric,
or, preferably, with acetic acid. These shades, however, while
brilliant and fast to light, are not at all fast to washing, and so
the wax must be removed later, with benzine or gasoline, and not with
a hot soap bath.
The sulphur dyes, with a little glucose in the bath, and plenty of
dyestuff, will give extremely fast colors on silk, but in most
cases these shades will be too dull for proper effect. They can be
greatly improved in color, though with some sacrifice of fastness, by
topping them, without removing the wax, in a cold bath of Basic dyes,
dissolved with a little acetic acid.
For extremely fast colors the Vat dyes can be used. Easier to apply,
especially for rather light shades, are some of the Salt colors
which, though they do not take as well on silk, in the cold, as
they do on cotton will, nevertheless, color it well, with prolonged
immersion, in a strong bath, in the presence of formic acid, and once
on, will stand a very considerable amount of washing.
(c) _Wool._—In case it is necessary to apply this process to wool,
the latter will probably be dyed in the cold with Acid dyes, in
the presence of some sodium sulphate (Glauber’s salt) and dilute
sulphuric acid.
To make this color faster to washing, steaming, and the like, it is
best, after dyeing, drying, and removing the wax with benzine, to
boil the dyed goods for half an hour or more in a bath containing a
little Glauber’s salt and dilute sulphuric acid, but no dyestuff.
(d) _Leather._—As a rule, the Batiked leather should be dyed with
Acid colors, acidified with acetic or formic acid, though they can be
shaded afterwards, if desired, by staining with Basic colors.
After dyeing, the wax can be removed by benzine or, softened
carefully by the cautious approach of a hot iron, can be incorporated
with the polishing wax, used for rubbing down and finishing the
surface.
(e) _Wood._—Batiked wood can be stained by soaking it in, or by
brushing it with, a solution of an acid color, acidified with a
little acetic acid. These dyes are more soluble than most of the
other classes, and hence soak into and penetrate the fibres better.
They may bleed, however, if exposed to warm water.
The Basic colors or even the Salt colors can be used, but, while they
are apt to adhere more firmly, they do not soak in as well.
The wax is either used for polishing, or is removed by benzine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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