Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General ReaderHobbs, William Herbert
Science
Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General Reader
Hobbs, William Herbert
Geology; Physical geography
WILLIAM H. HOBBS. The River System of Connecticut, Jour. Geol.,
vol. 9, 1901, pp. 469-485, pl. 1; Lineaments of the Atlantic Border
Region, Bull. Geol. Soc. Am., vol. 15, 1904, pp. 483-506, pls. 45-47;
The Correlation of Fracture Systems and the Evidences for Planetary
Dislocations within the Earth’s Crust, Trans. Wis. Acad. Sci., etc.,
vol. 15, 1905, pp. 15-29; Repeating Patterns in the Relief and in
the Structure of the Land, Bull. Geol. Soc. Am., vol. 22, 1911, pp.
123-176, pls. 7-13.
CHAPTER XVIII
THE FORMS CARVED AND MOLDED BY WAVES
=The motion of a water wave.=—The motions within a wave upon the
surface of a body of water may be thought of in two different ways.
First of all, there is the motion of each particle of water within
an orbit of its own; and there is, further, the forward motion of
propagation of the wave considered as a whole.
[Illustration: FIG. 247.—Diagram to show the nature of the motions
within a free water wave.]
The water particle in a wave has a continued motion round and round its
orbit like that of a horse circling a race course, only that here the
track is in a vertical plane, directed along the line of propagation of
the wave (Fig. 247). Each particle of water, through its friction upon
neighboring particles, is able to transmit its motion both along the
surface and downward into the water below. The force which starts the
water in motion and develops the wave, is the friction of wind blowing
over the water surface, and the size of the orbit of the water particle
at any point is proportional to the wind’s force and to the stretch
of water over which it has blown. The wind’s effect is, therefore,
cumulative—the wave is proportional to the wind’s effect upon all
water particles in its rear, added to the local wind friction.
The size or _height_ of the wave is measured by the diameter of the
orbit of motion of the surface particle, and this is the difference in
height between trough and crest. The distance from crest to crest, or
from trough to trough, is called the _wave length_. Though the wave
motion is transmitted downward into the water there is a continued
loss of energy which is here not compensated by added wind friction,
and so the orbital motion grows smaller and smaller, until at the
depth of about a wave length it has completely died out. This level
of no motion is called the _wave base_. In quiet weather the level of
no motion is practically at the water’s surface, and inasmuch as the
geological work of waves is in large part accomplished during the great
storms, the term “wave base” refers to the lowest level of wave motion
at the time of the heaviest storms. Upon the ocean the highest waves
that have been measured have an amplitude of about fifty feet and a
wave length of about six hundred feet.
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