East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
The house stands conspicuous, rearing a proud front to the world, if
world could be used appropriately of so quiet, humdrum a little place.
A few hundred yards off we reach the Church, Hôtel de Ville and open
square. In 1886, a monument to Danton was inaugurated here with much
ceremony. A bronze statue represents the great tribune in the fiery
attitude of an orator, pronouncing his immortal phrase:--
_“De l’audace, encore de l’audace, toujours de l’audace!”_
Arcis-sur-Aube is a little town of three thousand souls, within an
hour’s railway journey from Troyes. The river Aube (Alba), so called
from its silveriness flows by Danton’s house. In his time and up to the
opening of the railways the place was a port of some importance. Boats
and barges carried goods to Troyes, Bar-sur-Aube and other towns.
Of late years Arcis has been partially surrounded with pleasant shady
walks greatly appreciated by the townsfolk. Regretfully I quitted my
circle of acquaintances here, little dreaming under what interesting
circumstances I should next meet Danton’s great-nephew.
CHAPTER XV.
RHEIMS.
The grandest of all the grand cathedrals in France has been so fully
described elsewhere, that I will not attempt to do justice to the
subject myself. During one of my numerous visits to Rheims, however, it
was my good fortune to enjoy a very rare experience. On the occasion of
President Faure’s funeral, the great _bourdon_ or bell, formerly only
tolled for the death of monarchs, was now heard for the second time
during the Third Republic. Standing under the shadow of that vast
minster the sound seemed to come from east and west, from above and
below, dwarfing the hum of the city to nothingness, as if echoing from
the remotest corners of France. It was no heroic figure now knelled by
the deepest-voiced bell in the country, but in the person of the Havre
tanner raised to the dignity of a ruler, was embodied a magnificent
idea, the sovereignty of the people and the overthrow of privilege.
Never as long as I live shall I forget the boom of that great bell, and
long the solemn sound lingered on my ears.
A few days later the interior of the vast Cathedral echoed with sound
almost as overwhelming in its force and solemnity. A grand mass was
given in honour of the dead President.
In front of the high altar stood a lofty catafalque, the rich purple
drapery blazing with gold. The nave was filled with dazzling uniforms
and embroidered vestments. In especially reserved seats sat the officers
of the Legion of Honour, among these in civilian dress figuring the
honoured citizen of Rheims who has ever retained English nationality,
Mr. Jonathan Holden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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