East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
The luncheon was superabundant, consisting of wines, cold meat, and
bread in plenty. The task of finding refreshment for three thousand
people had been satisfactorily solved. The only thing wanting was
water. It seems that upon such an occasion no one was expected to drink
anything short of Bordeaux, Burgundy, or pale ale.
All the special trains were crowded for the return journey, made by way
of Meaux, but everyone made way for everyone, and we reached Paris at
eight o’clock, almost as fresh and quite as good-humoured as we had
quitted it at dawn. If this great review was interesting from one point
more than another, it was from the manner in which it displayed the
wonderful organising faculty of the French mind. The most trifling
details no more than the largest combinations can disconcert this
pre-eminently national aptitude.
CHAPTER XVII.
SOULAINES AND BAR-SUR-AUBE.
The first of these places mentioned is a Champenois village twelve miles
from a railway station. From the windows of my friends’ château I look
upon a magnificent deer park, where during the oft-time torrid heat of
summer delicious shade is to be found.
Far away vast forests bound the horizon, to the north a hot open road
leading to Brienne-le-Château, where Napoleon studied as a military
cadet; eastward, lies varied scenery between Soulaines and Bar-sur-Aube,
there woodland ending and the vine country beginning.
On one especial visit during September, not even these acres of
closely-serried forest could induce more than a suggestion of shadow and
coolness. Although screened from view the sun was there. Throughout a
vast region--half a province of woodland--folks breathed the hot air of
the Soudan. The tropic temperature admitted of no exercise during the
day, but after four o’clock tea we broke up into parties--drove, rode,
strolled, called upon homelier neighbours, visited quaint old churches
hidden in the trees or forest nooks, the solitude only broken by
pattering of deer and rabbits, or nut-cracking squirrel aloft. Here
and there we would come upon huts of charcoal-burner and wood-cutter,
gamekeepers and foresters, too, had their scattered lodges; such signs
of human habitation being few and far between.
We are here in the remnant of the great Celtic forest of Der. The
straggling village of Soulaines is one long street, a little stream
running behind the picturesque, timbered houses, many of these have
outer wooden staircases leading to grange or storehouse. Church and
presbytery, convent and Mairie were conspicuous.
In the opposite direction, another church rose above the horizon, the
centre of what in France is called not a village but a hamlet. Bare as
a barn seen from far and near showed this little church, and we often
walked thither for the sake of its picturesque surroundings. The portal
of the quaint old building is a mass of ancient sculpture, close round
it being grouped a few mud-built, timbered, one-storeyed dwellings all
of a pattern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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