East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
Looking down the lines of well-dressed people, all with the exception of
ourselves belonging to the same rank as the bride, I could but be struck
with the good looks, gentle bearing, and general appearance of everyone.
As to the head forester, he was one of Nature’s gentlemen, and might
easily have passed for a general or senator. At the table sat several
young girls of the village, each having a cavalier, all these dressed
very neatly and comporting themselves like well-bred young ladies
without presumption or awkwardness. During the inevitable pauses between
dish and dish, one after another of these pretty girls stood up and
gratified the company with a song, the performance costing perhaps an
effort, but being got through simply and naturally. In the midst of the
banquet, which lasted over three hours, two professionals came to sing
and recite. From the breakfast table, after toasts,--the afternoon being
now well advanced--we again formed a procession to the Mairie, in front
of which _al fresco_ dancing commenced. Add that this out-of-door ball
lasted till a second dinner, the dinner being followed by a second ball
lasting far into the small hours. Nor did the celebration end here.
The following day was equally devoted to visits, feasts, toasts, and
dancing. What a national heritage is this capacity for fellowship,
gaiety, and harmless mirth!
Bar-sur-Aube lies twelve miles off and a beautiful drive it is thither
from Soulaines. We gradually leave forest, pasture and arable
land, finding ourselves amid vineyards. At the little village of
Ville-sur-Terre, we one day halted at a farm-house for a chat, the
housewife most kindly presenting me with two highly decorative plates.
As we approach Bar-sur-Aube we come upon a wide and beautiful prospect,
wooded hills dominating the plain.
This little town is very prettily situated, and like every other in
France possesses some old churches. Perhaps its most famous child is
Bombonnel, the great panther-slayer, born close by, who died at Dijon
and whose souvenirs bequeathed to me as a legacy I have given elsewhere.
The son of a working glazier, he made a little fortune as hawker of
stockings in the streets of New Orleans, returned to France, cleared
the Algerian Tell of panthers, for a time enjoyed ease with dignity in
Burgundy; on the outbreak of the Franco-German War in 1870, as leader
of a thousand _francs-tireurs_, gave the Germans more trouble than any
commander of an army corps, twice had a price of £1,000 set upon his
head, was glorified by Victor Hugo, received the decoration of the
Legion of Honour, and as a reward for his patriotic services several
hundred acres of land in Algeria. A gigantic statue of Sant Hubert, the
patron of hunters, now commemorates the great little man, for he was
short of statue, in the cemetery of Dijon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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