East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
As I have explained, no liberty, as we understand it, exists for the
French subjects of the German Emperor, neither freedom of speech, nor of
the press, nor of public meeting are enjoyed in Alsace and the portion
of Lorraine no longer French. A rigorous censorship of books as well
as newspapers is carried on. Even religious worship is under perpetual
surveillance. One by one French pastors and priests are supplanted
by their German brethren. A much respected pastor of Mulhouse, long
resident in that city and ardently French, told me some years ago that
he expected to be the last of his countrymen permitted to officiate.
Police officers wearing plain clothes attend the churches in which
French is still permitted on Sunday. There is nothing that can be called
representative or real parliamentary government. The Stadtholder or
Governor is in reality a dictator armed with autocratic powers. He
can, at a moment’s notice, expel citizens, or stop newspapers. As to
administration, it rests in the hands of the State Secretariat or body
of Ministers, three in number. There is a pretence at home rule, but
one fact suffices to explain its character and working. Of the thirty
members forming the local Reichstag, sitting at Strasburg, fifteen are
always named by the Stadtholder himself. This little Chamber of Deputies
deliberates upon provincial affairs, all Bills having to pass the
Chamber at Berlin and receive the Imperial sanction before becoming law.
As to the party of protest in the Reichstag itself, formerly headed by
the late Jean Dollfuss, I was assured that it had ceased to exist.
Years before, then burdened with the weight of care and years, the great
patriot of Mulhouse had said to me, “I no longer take my seat at Berlin.
Of what good?” And were he living still, that great and good man,
burning as was his patriotism, inextinguishable as was his love for
France, would doubtless echo the words I now heard on every lip, “Peace,
peace; only let us have peace!”
Whilst at Strasburg German has crowded out French, at Mulhouse I found
French still universally spoken. The prohibition of native speech in
schools is not only a domestic but a commercial grievance. As extensive
business relations exist between the two countries, especially near the
frontier, a knowledge of both French and German is really necessary
to all classes. Even tourists in Alsace-Lorraine nowadays fare badly
without some smattering of the latter language. Hotel-keepers especially
look to the winning side, and do their very utmost to Germanise their
establishments. Shopkeepers must live, and find it not only advantageous
but necessary to follow the same course. Sad indeed is the spectacle
of Germanised France! Nemesis here faces us in militarism, crushing
the people with taxation and profoundly shocking the best instincts of
humanity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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