East of Suez: Ceylon, India, China and JapanPenfield, Frederic Courtland
History
East of Suez: Ceylon, India, China and Japan
Penfield, Frederic Courtland
East Asia -- Description and travel; India -- Description and travel
The colony of Macao is scarcely more important than one of Anthony
Hope's imaginary kingdoms, but for the fact that it is on the map, for
the area of Portugal's foothold is not more than two or three miles in
length, and a half-mile to a mile in width; it is merely the rocky
promontory of the tip end of the island of Heung Shan. A wall of masonry
with artistic gateway separates the dominion of Portugal from the great
Chinese empire--on one side of the portal the law of the Emperor of
China is absolute, and on the other the rule of the monarch of Portugal
is sacred. In various ways the place and its people remind strongly
of a comic-opera setting--but the officer there serving his far-away
sovereign discourses with serious countenance of Goa, and Delagoa Bay
and Macao as important colonial possessions. Until Hong Kong under the
British began to rise as a port and base of commercial distribution,
Macao had a considerable trade; but with the decline of business the
harbor has silted up until now an oversea ship could not find anchorage.
A few industries, like cement making and silk winding, are carried on in
the outskirts of the colony, and a suspiciously large amount of prepared
opium is shipped, although the closest observer can detect not a poppy
under cultivation anywhere on the rocky promontory.
The old Protestant cemetery contains many graves of good men and true,
such as naval officers and seamen, who have died on Eastern seas, and
whose comrades preferred to leave them interred in Christian soil rather
than intrust their cherished remains to cemeteries in pagan lands. The
headstones of Macao's God's-acre bear name after name once carried with
pride on the rolls of the American, British or French naval and
merchantman services, and diplomatic and consular titles are recorded on
more than one headstone. It is interesting to scale the steps to inspect
closely the facade of the Jesuit church of San Paulo, erected some three
hundred years ago. Nothing remains but the towering facade, as erect as
if reared yesterday, and bearing silent testimony to the courage of the
pioneers in the Far East of the Catholic faith. A 'rickshaw journey
through every important street, from the center where are the hotel and
government buildings to the remotest patches of farming land near the
"frontier," consumes scarcely two hours. In the public park you come not
infrequently upon statues with tablets informing all observers of the
importance and majesty of the home country welded to the peninsula of
Europe, once famed for the intrepidity of its navigators and
adventurers. If Macao move the visitor to voice an opinion, it is that
under certain conditions which you might name the place could be a
veritable paradise, but that benevolent Portugal is there conducting an
earthly Nirvana for all and sundry of China's affluent sons mustering
the ingenuity and influence to gain shelter beneath the flag of dear old
Portugal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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