Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and historyMacalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
History
Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history
Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
Church vestments
This being granted, the subcingulum is seen to be a girdle, from either
side of which depends a lozenge-shaped 'lappet.' We shall meet with a
similar lappet in the =epigonation= of the Greek Church. Only portions
of these lappets are to be seen in the fresco in question, but enough is
apparent to show them to be lozenge-shaped.
The testimony of Cencio points to these lappets being, not mere
ornaments, but bags or purses hung to the belt; and this brings us to
another stage in the evolution of this vestment. We know that through
the middle ages a bag called a _gypcière_ hung at the belts of
civilians, and served the double purpose of purse and pocket. It is but
natural to suppose that the early clergy found such appendages useful
even in divine service. Let us now go yet further, and see whether
confirmation of these theories awaits us.
Honorius of Autun in 1130 writes: 'The subcingulum, also called perizona
or subcinctorium, is hung doubled about the loins; this signifies zeal
in almsgiving,' etc.
Note, in this passage, the expression 'hung doubled.' This can only
refer to the 'lappets' being hung _one on each side_. And the
'almsgiving,' which Honorius asserts this vestment to signify, suggests
a purse.
Other writers, in the century preceding Honorius, write to the same
effect; and even as early as the tenth century, in a manuscript of the
mass, we find a distinction drawn between the 'cingulum' and the
'baltheum' in the prayers said while vesting.
In short, it seems probable that the subcingulum, with its appendages,
is, like several other sacerdotal vestments, a modification into an
ornament of something which had been designed for some natural
requirement. When the maniple became too narrow and too richly
embroidered to be of the slightest use as a handkerchief, it cannot be
supposed that the priest did entirely without some resource; some plain
piece of cloth must surely have been employed in its place, and some
pocket must then have been required in which to place it. Again, some
receptacle must have been wanted in which to place those comforting
metal 'apples' in which hot water was placed when the day was cold; and
the thumbstall or ponser, the thimble designed to keep the oil which
adhered to his thumb after it had been dipped in the chrism, from
greasing any of his vestments. It seems only natural to suppose that the
subcingulum was originally designed to supply these wants.
XII. _The Rational._—This ornament, obsolete now, was assumed by the
bishops of the early years of the middle ages, in direct imitation of
the breastplate of the ephod worn by the Jewish High Priest.
It consisted of a wooden brooch, overlaid with enamelled metal, which
was fastened high up on the breast of the chasuble, and seems commonly
to have been worn when there was no central orphrey on that vestment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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