The chain of Libya, during the last hour, has been growing gradually
larger against the profound and excessively blue sky. And now that it
rises up quite near to us, overheated, and as it were incandescent,
under this ten o'clock sun, we begin to see on all sides, in front
of the first rocky spurs of the mountains, the debris of palaces,
colonnades, staircases and pylons. Headless giants, swathed like dead
Pharaohs, stand upright, with hands crossed beneath their shroud of
sandstone. They are the temples and statues for the manes of numberless
kings and queens, who during three or four thousand years had their
mummies buried hard by in the heart of the mountains, in the deepest of
the walled and secret galleries.
And now the cornfields have ceased; there is no longer any
herbage--nothing. We have crossed the desolate threshold, we are in the
desert, and tread suddenly upon a disquieting funereal soil, half sand,
half ashes, that is pitted on all sides with gaping holes. It looks like
some region that had long been undermined by burrowing beasts. But it is
men who, for more than fifty centuries, have vexed this ground, first
to hide the mummies in it, and afterwards, and until our day, to exhume
them. Each of these holes has enclosed its corpse, and if you peer
within you may see yellow-coloured rags still trailing there; and
bandages, or legs and vertebrae of thousands of years ago. Some lean
Bedouins, who exercise the office of excavators, and sleep hard by in
holes like jackals, advance to sell us scarabaei, blue-glass trinkets
that are half fossilised, and feet or hands of the dead.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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