Egypt of the Pharaohs and of the KhedivéZincke, F. Barham (Foster Barham)
History
Egypt of the Pharaohs and of the Khedivé
Zincke, F. Barham (Foster Barham)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History
And so was an older friend of mine, with whom and another lad, in the
year 1836, each of the three being then seventeen years old, I had gone,
I believe, the first open-boat cruise on our home rivers. We started from
Bedford and went to York and Hull, and back again, 700 miles in an open
boat, pulling it all the way ourselves, and lying down in it at night
to sleep, accoutred as we were in Jersey frock and canvas. During the
whole expedition we cooked our meals ourselves. From that boat we had
looked forward into the unknown world before us: I can still recall the
anticipations, visions, and resolves of that time. Now, from the top of
the Pyramid of Cheops, we looked back on our course, so far, through the
world. Well, just like other people, we had had each of us to make some
discoveries for himself, and to pay for his experience. But the fight had
not been always against either of us. On the whole we had not found it a
bad world. We were glad, after thirty years of the chanceful life-battle,
to meet again, on the summit of the Great Pyramid, if not quite
unscathed, yet not crippled. I suppose we each thought that the time to
come could not be as pleasant as the interval had been that separated our
two excursions.
The Great Pyramid is built of extremely hard and compact nummulitic
limestone. The third was cased, at all events, to half its height,
perhaps completely, with enormous blocks of granite. A few are still in
their places, but most of them have been thrown to the ground. A small
portion of the external casing at the top of the Second Pyramid is still
uninjured. It is of so pale and fine a limestone that it looks as if it
were of polished white marble.
I found the best way of getting an impressive idea of the enormous
magnitude of these Pyramids was to place myself in the centre of one
side, and to look up. The eye then travels over all the courses of stone
from the very bottom to the apex, which appears to pierce and penetrate
the blue arch above. This way of looking at the Great Pyramid—perhaps it
is a way which exaggerates to the eye its magnitude unfairly—makes it
look Alpine in height, while it produces the strange effect just noticed.
While making the ascent, the Hakem of the Arab tribe, which supplies
guides and assistance to travellers, took the opportunity of a pause for
breath to press upon me the purchase of some old coins. I told him I
would look at them when we had done with the Pyramid. ‘I am satisfied:’
he replied; ‘an Englishman’s word is as good as his money.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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