English literature -- 18th century -- History and criticism; Great Britain -- Intellectual life -- 18th century
After Vauxhall follows, as a matter of course, a visit to the equally
popular Ranelagh. Like most people, the traveller had expected it to
resemble its rival, and until he actually entered the Great Room, was
grievously disappointed. 'But,' he continues, 'it is impossible to
describe, or indeed to conceive, the effect it had on me, when, coming
out of the gloom of the garden, I suddenly entered a round building,
illuminated by many hundred lamps, the splendour and beauty of which
surpassed everything of the kind I had ever seen before. Everything
seemed here to be round; above, there was a gallery, divided into boxes,
and in one part of it an organ with a beautiful choir, from which issued
both instrumental and vocal music. All around, under this gallery, are
handsome painted boxes for those who wish to take refreshments. The
floor was covered with mats; in the middle of which are four high black
pillars, within which are neat fire-places for preparing tea, coffee,
and punch; and all around also there are placed tables, set out with all
kinds of refreshments. Within [he means 'without'] these four pillars,
in a kind of magic rotundo, all the _beau-monde_ of London move
perpetually round and round.' This, as may be seen by a glance at Parr's
print of 1751 after Canaletto, or the better-known plate in Stowe's
'Survey' of 1754, is a fairly faithful description of the Ranelagh of
Walpole and Chesterfield. After a modest _consommation_, which, to his
astonishment, he finds is covered by the half-crown he paid at the door,
he mounts to the upper regions. 'I now went up into the gallery, and
seated myself in one of the boxes there: and from thence, becoming,
all at once, a grave and moralizing spectator, I looked down on the
concourse of people who were still moving round and round in the fairy
circle; and then I could easily distinguish several stars, and other
orders of knighthood; French queues and bags contrasted with plain
English heads of hair, or professional wigs; old age and youth,
nobility and commonalty, all passing each other in the motley swarm. An
Englishman who joined me, during this my reverie, pointed out to me, on
my inquiring, princes, and lords with their dazzling stars; with
which they eclipsed the less brilliant part of the company.' His next
experiences are Of the House of Commons. Here he had like to have
been disappointed from his unhappy ignorance of an enlightened native
formula. Having made his way to Westminster Hall, a 'very genteel man in
black' informed him he must be introduced by a member, an announcement
which caused him to retire 'much chagrined.' Something unintelligible
was mumbled behind him about a bottle of wine, but it fell on alien
ears. As soon as he returned home, his intelligent landlady solved the
difficulty, sending him back next day with the needful _douceur_, upon
which the 'genteel man,' with much venal urbanity, handed him into a
select seat in the Strangers' Gallery. The building itself strikes him
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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