English literature -- 18th century -- History and criticism; Great Britain -- Intellectual life -- 18th century
Over the descriptions of St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey we must pass
silently, in order to accompany the tourist on his road to Derbyshire,
to the 'natural curiosities' of which, after some hesitation, he felt
himself most at tracted. Equipped with a road-book, he set out by
stage-coach from the White Hart (in the Strand) for Richmond, intending
thence to pursue his journey on foot. According to his own account, he
must have travelled in just such' another vehicle as that depicted in
Hogarth's 'Country Inn-Yard,' and have shared the curiosity, so often
felt by admirers of that veracious picture, and afterwards amply
gratified in his own case, as to the method by which passengers managed
to 'fasten themselves securely on the roof.' Luckily the coach met
neither highwayman nor footpad. At Richmond he alighted, and is properly
enthusiastic, almost dithyrambic, over 'one of the first situations in
the world.' He even got up to see the sun rise from Richmond Hill, with
the usual fate of such premature adventurers, a clouded sky. Then he set
out on foot by Windsor to Oxford. But he speedily discovered that, in
a horse-riding age, a pedestrian was a person of very inferior
respectability; and though--modelling himself upon the Vicar of
Wakefield--he was careful to invite the landlords to drink with him, he
found himself generally treated with pity or contempt, which, when he
sat down under a hedge to read Milton, almost changed into a doubt of
his sanity. At most of the inns they declined to give him house-room,
though, finally, he was allowed to enter 'one of those kitchens which I
had so often read of in Fielding's fine novels,' where, just as in
those novels, presently arrives a showy post-chaise to set the servile
establishment in a bustle, although the occupants called for nothing but
two pots of beer. After a vain attempt to obtain a night's lodging at
Nuneham, he picks up a travelling companion in the shape of a young
parson, who had been preaching at Dorchester and was returning to
Oxford. His new ally takes him to the time-honoured Mitre, where he
finds a great number of clergymen, all with their gowns and bands on,
sitting round a large table, each with his pot of beer before him.' A
not very edifying theological discussion ensues, which is too long
to quote, and poor Parson Moritz is so well entertained that he has a
splitting headache next morning. His further fortunes cannot be detailed
here. From Oxford he goes to Stratford-on-Avon, then to Lichfield and
Derby, and so to his destination, 'the great cavern near Castleton, in
the high Peake of Derbyshire,' which he describes at length. He returns
by Nottingham and Leicester, whence, still enthusiastic, but a little
weary of his humiliations on foot, he takes coach to Northampton,
mounting to the top, in company with a farmer, a young man and 'a
black-a-moor.' This eminence proving as perilous as it looked, he creeps
into the basket, in spite of the warnings of the black. 'As long as we
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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