English literature -- 18th century -- History and criticism; Great Britain -- Intellectual life -- 18th century
The English translator was a 'very young lady,' said to be the daughter
of an unidentified personage referred to by the author: the editor, who,
in a copious preface, testifies, among other things, to the favourable
reception of the work in Berlin and Germany generally, remains
anonymous. Moritz himself, the writer of the volume, was a young
Prussian clergyman, enthusiastic about England and things English, who
came among us 'to draw Miltonic air' (in Gay's phrase), and to read his
beloved 'Paradise Lost' in the very land of its conception. He stayed
exactly seven weeks in this country, three of which he spent in London,
the rest being occupied by visits to Oxford, Birmingham, the Peak, and
elsewhere. What he sees, and what he admires (and luckily for us he
admires a great deal), he describes in letters to one Frederic Gedike, a
professorial friend at Berlin.
His first communication, dated 31st May, depicts his progress up the
Thames, which he regards as greatly surpassing even 'the charming banks
of the _Elbe_.' Then he disembarks near Hartford, whence, with two
companions, he posts to London, behind a round-hatted postilion 'with a
nosegay in his bosom.' He is delighted with the first view he gets of an
English soldier, 'in his red uniform, his hair cut short and combed back
on his forehead, so as to afford a full view of his fine broad manly
face.' He is interested also to see two boys engaged in the national
pastime of boxing; and he marvels at the huge gateway-like sign-posts
of the village inns. Passing over Westminster Bridge, he does not, like
Wordsworth, burst into a sonnet, but he is impressed (as who would not
be!) by that unequalled _coup d'oil_. 'The prospect from this bridge
alone,' he says, 'seems to afford one the epitome of a journey, or a
voyage in miniature, as containing something of everything that most
usually occurs on a journey.' Presently, a little awed by the prodigious
greatness and gloom of the houses (which remind him of Leipzig), he
takes lodgings in George Street, Strand, with a tailor's widow, not very
far, as he is pleased to discover, from that Adelphi Terrace where once
'lived the renowned _Garrick_.' To his simple tastes his apartments,
with their leather-covered chairs, carpeted floors and mahogany tables,
have an air of splendour. 'I may do just as I please,' he says, 'and
keep my own tea, coffee, bread and butter, for which purpose [and here
comes a charming touch of guilelessness!] my landlady has given me a
cupboard in my room, which locks up.' With one of his landlady's sons
for guide, he makes the tour of St. James's Park (where you may buy milk
warm from the cow), and he experiences for the first time 'the exquisite
pleasure of mixing freely with a concourse of people, who are for the
most part well dressed and handsome.' His optimism finds a further
gratification in the 'sweet security' (the expression is not his,
but Lamb's) which is afforded 'from the prodigious crowd of carts and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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