Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
In the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics, particularly
suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished
products. Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary
buttonhole sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in
the controlling of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a
very unsightly buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found
advisable to weave the buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the
“Guyot” suspender, where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for
the back ends, and non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used
for the front straps.
The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired place,
and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven. This
is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, both of which are
running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one
of which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of
the goods is being woven, the other bank running “dead” underneath the
goods during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two
distinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged,
the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other
half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again
formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of
weaving the plain part of the strap.
[Illustration: Fig. 5—Jacquard Suspender Loom With Two Machines and Fancy
Head]
This process of changing from the single to the double shed is
accomplished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two
sections, to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one
side of the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap
both sections of the cam jack operate in unison, running side by side
from the same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for
spreading apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds
are then formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position
of the lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and
properly engage the two sheds.
Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the
position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not
engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the
goods, and require trimming off between the buttonholes. This trimming
may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same
in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this
particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the lower
shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the goods at
every pick of the loom and does not need trimming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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