“The situation is, like most grottoes, placed where a grotto would
not be looked for: it joins to the house. Now having told its only
defect, I will go on to the rest. The first room is fitted up
entirely with shells, the sides and ceiling in beautiful mosaic, a
rich cornice of flowers in baskets and cornucopias, and the little
yellow sea snail is so disposed in shades as to resemble knots
of ribbon which seem to tye up some of the bunches of flowers.
There is a bed for the Hermit, which is composed of rich shells,
and so shaded that the curtain seems folded and flowing.... The
room adjoining it is the true and proper style for a grotto; it is
composed of rough rock work in a very bold taste, the water falls
down it into a cold bath. This grotto is about 50 yards from the
Thames, to which the descent is very precipitate. From the Shell
Room you have no advantage of the Thames, from the other room you
have a view of it. The House to which this grotto is joined is
a small habitation where Lady Fane used to pass a good deal of
time. Lord Fane’s seat[437] is about a mile from it: it has not
indeed the view of the Thames, but is finely situated in a bower
of Beech Wood, and before it a pretty prospect. From the Grotto
we went to a Wood by the Thames, where we sat and eat our cold
dinner very comfortably. In the afternoon we walked up a hill
which commands a fine prospect, the Thames winds about in the
manner it does at Cliefden. There is a want of wood, as I think
the country rather flat, but the prospect is very extensive; you
see Oxford and Reading, one on the right, the other on the left
hand. In our road thither one of the wheels took fire and burnt
thro’ the axletree.... A wheelwright was apply’d to but he had been
carousing at a christening, and was not in that degree of sober
sense requisite to make even an axletree. A Justice of the peace
whom the King had knighted lived hard by; to him we applyed for a
coach, as it was part of his office to send vagrants to the place
of their abode. Alas! his coach, which contrary to other things
used to rest on the week days and work only on the Sabbath, had not
been licensed, to the great inconvenience of his lady and the grief
of Carter John, who one day in the week was a coachman.... What was
to be done? The sun was declining, we were 20 miles from home....
A good inn with the sign of the Blue Boar, Green Dragon, or Red
Lion would have pleased us better than all we had seen, but--Alas!
the only village within reach offered us a homely lodging under
thatched roofs. We were a party of seven, and might have stormed
the village with more ease than the French can Bergen-op-Zoom,
but the plunder w’d not have given us a supper, or the place
afforded us a lodging. But on finding the uncoached Justice was
married to Sir Robert Sutton’s niece,[438] an acquaintance of Mrs.
Donnellan’s, she sent her compliments, told our distress, and we
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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