Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
The glorious rays of the sun burst through it the eastern hills. From
night to day is but a moment. There is no lingering dawn. The country is
ablaze with colour, and yet the autumn is well advanced towards the
so-called St. Martin's summer. In spite of the early hour, the streets
of Pekin show unusual bustle. These endless thoroughfares, which on
ordinary mornings are so gloomy and deserted, have awaked to life. At
the doors of those quaint and attractive shops, full of the strange odds
and ends that are of perennial interest to the wanderer in the East, and
at the street corners, groups of people are talking vivaciously. Curious
eyes are peeping from little windows, and everybody is evidently in
expectation of some unusual sight. But what gives the most unfamiliar
aspect to the scene is that there are street-sweepers here and there,
more or less busy at their work, and a few policemen, in the most
fanciful uniforms. It is the day of the Imperial reception of the
diplomatic corps. It is an innovation in the functions at the Court of
the Dragon that the representatives of the Western nations should be
annually received in state, a favour which has been granted since the
Allies entered Pekin, one of the very few concessions, I am afraid, that
have been granted.
The Court passes the autumn in the beautiful residence some sixteen
miles from the city. We are compelled to travel all this way, and by any
means we may find convenient, as there is no railway. Some are riding,
some are carried in old-fashioned canopied palanquins. I see the
conservative representative of Portugal carried by a magnificent team of
stalwart Cantonese, with endless pigtails and rich harness--I ought to
say livery. Germany, on the contrary, rattles over the most
impracticable, neglected highway in a Tyrolean carriage, an object of
great wonder and interest to the natives, as it is the first and only
four-wheeler in the city.
It is a long journey, but not devoid of interest. We pass through a
series of villages and hamlets, each of them teeming with busy life. I
must say the energy and industry of the Chinese fill me with admiration.
All along the road we meet people bearing signs of trade or commerce.
Some are carrying huge baskets of fruit, of flowers, or grain. Others
are laden with many kinds of goods. Many push wheelbarrows burdened
with more than a European cart could bear. Caravans of heavy Mongolian
camels roped together travel to and fro in one never-ending, sinuous
line. But the greater part of the traffic is absorbed by the Imperial
household.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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