Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
THE EMPEROR OF KOREA AT THE NEW PALACE
Since last night we have been in the midst of revolution; but it seems
that a revolution in Korea is very much like everyday life in other
corners of the earth, and nobody attaches any importance to it.
Everybody pursues his daily task, the ordinary routine goes on in its
slow and lumbering way. Official life maintains its sluggish pulsation,
and to my astonishment I even get an invitation to be received in the
course of the afternoon by the Emperor and the Crown Prince.
It is a calm day, calm in every respect, and the people of Seoul seem to
be at rest, as I am carried by eight unusually large bearers towards the
New Palace. The little _cortege_ is of a strange character. My
sedan-chair is covered with green silk, and, with the bearers in dark
purple, makes quite a patch of colour in the whitewashed streets.
Seoul might be called the white city. The houses are white, and every
living being, young and old, man and woman, is clad in white cotton. I
should really think that the absence of colour and sound is the most
striking feature of the Land of the Morning Calm.
The reception takes place at the New Palace. There are four palaces in
Seoul, the Eastern, Northern, Western, and the one I am just entering. I
have passed a great many delightful afternoons in their magnificent
grounds, forlorn gardens, quaint summer-houses, and charming pagodas.
I returned again and again to sketch for a while, or to admire the
once-famous Korean art, which, I am afraid, has vanished for ever, like
the famous bronze-workers, sculptors, and cloisonne makers, like the
whole once-famous civilization that has left only a few magnificent
monuments of its existence.
The sedan-chairs are put down before the main entrance, which looks very
much like that of a suburban railway station, with its glass roof,
supported by iron posts. It is modern indeed. It may be useful, but it
is sadly commonplace. There is a platform, too, not to miss anything to
complete the _tout ensemble_.
I am shown first into an ante-room which might be that of any small
country villa, and our coats are hung on racks which have every
appearance of having come straight from Tottenham Court Road. And then
we step into a drawing-room, which I prefer to call a waiting room, an
exact replica of those dreary places where we are compelled to waste so
many hours of our lives. It might belong to a dentist, a doctor, or a
public official at home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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