Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
Before going any further I must explain that I was travelling by goods
train. The line, as already said, was not finished, the rails hardly
laid, and there were no proper stations; guards and officials being
accommodated in temporary huts and encampments. There was no regular
tariff and no tickets were issued. Trains of trucks with materials for
construction plied between the main junctions, and these same trains
also conveyed the workmen and the persons connected with the
undertaking, to their various destinations.
It was necessary to get a special permission from the authorities to
travel by this route. Of course I was prepared to rough it, and the
directors had not disguised from me the fact that as yet no arrangements
had been made for the convenience of passengers. They could not even
promise that I should reach Port Arthur without delay, for some of the
temporary bridges had been destroyed by the autumn rains, and the
railway banks in various parts were washed away by the floods. But a
special car was placed at my disposal for the whole journey across
Manchuria, and this semi-saloon car became my domicile for several
weeks.
To give some idea of my movable house, I may say that although the
exterior was extremely simple, the interior was comfortable enough. It
consisted of a bedroom, a study, a passage, a lavatory, and a small
balcony; besides these, there were a kitchen and sleeping accommodation
for my servant. The balcony was my favourite resort: many a peaceful
hour have I spent there in reading or writing, and looking out upon that
dismal landscape unfolding itself in its monstrous immensity.
Sometimes my home was shunted and I was left for days to amuse myself in
the vicinity of some place of interest. Then it would be hooked on again
behind trucks carrying bricks, iron, and all kinds of machinery. My
carriage was my home, my stronghold. And indeed it was not unlike a
fortified castle when it stood motionless near one of the stations, with
sentries and watches patrolling round or halting in the neighbouring
encampment. I was never quite sure whether they regarded me as a convict
or whether they kept a kindly watch over me.
Along the route various stations were in process of building, some
already roofed. Unpretentious structures they were, never more than one
storey high, and roofed with black tiles. Outwardly they resemble the
Chinese houses, and the beams are curved in the "Ting" style. Although
unfinished, they impress one as if encumbered with a weary past, rather
than as having a bright future in store.
Everything, in fact, has a doleful aspect here. There are no gardens and
no cultivation of any kind worth mentioning. The station yards are
swamps, or pools of mud. Here and there an attempt has been made to
improve matters, and stones or planks are laid down at intervals to
assist the traveller in crossing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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