Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
At every step there is a fresh surprise. Fortunately, so far, no
guide-books have been written to describe the attractions of the Manchu
capital, and no cumbersome descriptions spoil the effect of its genuine
charms.
To form an idea of the plan of the city, imagine an oblong chess-board.
Like all Chinese towns, it is regular in the principal lines. There are
two main streets in the form of a cross, intersected by innumerable
narrow lanes, and in the middle of the town, where the two chief
thoroughfares cross, stands a high tower from the top of which a drum
and a gong announce the beginning and the close of the day. Also from
this high vantage ground the alarm is given in case of danger, and a
detachment of soldiers, stationed in a sort of pigeon-holes, spend the
hours of their watch in peaceful slumber.
It would be difficult to enumerate all the places of interest which
Mukden contains, for everything is interesting to the Western mind, even
to the smallest cottage with its curiously shaped roof and quaint style.
And the interest lies not only in their material conception or in their
exterior, but also in their inner qualities, and especially in the fact
that they give expression to the mental and artistic ideas of the
nation. As has already been said, it is at first the general effect, the
picturesqueness, and the novelty, which strike one as so charming. Some
of the houses are very dilapidated, the walls lean over, and the roofs
are covered with a tangled growth of moss and grass. But all this makes
them the more attractive from an artistic point of view.
Among the most interesting public edifices are the yamens belonging to
the Government, and occupied by the Governor and some others of the
mandarins of high degree; one or two Lama monasteries; the large
buildings where the Russian Consul and the Commander-in-Chief reside;
and last, but not least, the building occupied by the famous
Russo-Chinese Bank and its agents.
Naturally the Imperial Palace is a place of great interest. With its
enclosure of walls it forms a city within the city. It is divided into
various courts, and consists of a great many separate structures,
detached houses, halls, and pavilions. Taken separately these are not of
great importance, but the whole effect is very striking. The colonnades,
beams, and brackets are of carved wood, richly painted and gilded. All
the woodwork is painted dark purple, and the roofs, like those of all
edifices connected with the Imperial Family, or dedicated to Confucius,
are covered with yellow tiles. The greater part of the palace is now
occupied by Russian troops.
Near the palace gate is a low building in which a whole detachment of
soldiers is quartered, and the open court is lined with cannon. It was
only on my showing them a special permission from the commander that the
sentries allowed me to pass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account