Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
Skirting the far end of the pasture was a dark brushwood; my companions
told me that this was the sacred grove containing the imperial tombs.
The distance to the town might be about six or seven miles, but our
little horses carried us quickly over the ground. The Manchu
dignitaries, in their flowing silken robes, their pagoda-like hats,
their embroideries and long pigtails, looked unquestionably most
picturesque. My mount and my saddle were similar to theirs, pretty, but
at the same time I must say that I never rode on anything more
uncomfortable than a Chinese saddle of embossed wood, with stirrups in
the shape of slippers, and fixed so high that knees and chin nearly
meet.
Two large stone monuments flank the path which leads to the sacred
grove. Forbidding-looking dragons guard the entrance. A deep cutting
gives access to the place of interment, and this long alley is guarded
on both sides by monsters of various descriptions. Elephants, camels,
gigantic human figures, are placed at intervals facing each other, all
cut in stone, and intended to ward off the evil spirits.
The beauty of the place is indescribable. The darkness of the foliage,
the white stone statues, and the paved pathway winding through the
woods, all help to give it the character of an enchanted forest, where
solitude reigns, and the air is full of poetry.
Later we crossed some marble bridges of exquisite workmanship, their
curiously sculptured balustrades softly reflecting themselves in the
blue waters of the little streams flowing lazily between the flowering
banks. I was told that the statues, the streams, and the bridges, have
all of them some allegorical meaning in connexion with the spirits of
the departed.
At length, passing through a porch, we stood face to face with an arch
of such surpassing beauty, that for a moment I was dazed and lost in
speechless admiration. Surely this must be one of the greatest, one of
the most wonderful architectural creations of the Yellow Empire.
Material, design, proportions, all the details, are so supremely
beautiful. It is of marble, the arch resting on two huge blocks with
cross-bars and buttresses supported by imperial dragons. The decorations
are exquisite, and the carving of the friezes unique of its kind. Not
even among all the marvellous monuments of Pekin, Nankin, or Hankow, did
I find anything to rival it. The beauty of the conception, as well as
the finished workmanship, impress one most forcibly, because of its
being so perfectly in keeping with the signification of the whole
triumphal arch, which symbolizes the passage of the spirit, after a life
of strife and victory, to the abodes of their ancestors and everlasting
peace. In this respect I know of nothing to compare with it, unless it
be that pearl of Asiatic architecture, the Taj Mahal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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