Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
The Russian Residence, or Consulate, as it is still sometimes called
before the world, is a yamen like all other public buildings in China,
only perhaps a little more ruinous than those I saw in the morning. The
interior is greatly lacking in comfort and luxury. It gives rather the
impression of a camp than of a home; there is no furniture beyond what
is strictly necessary, and nothing has been done to make it pretty or
attractive. The only redeeming feature is the table, which appears to be
permanently set for meals. It is covered with quite as many little
dishes as the table of the Mandarin, but instead of fruit and
sweetmeats, they contain hors-d'oeuvres, such as caviare, herrings,
smoked salmon, cucumber, and all the innumerable varieties which compose
the famous national _Zakouska_. There was a perfect array of bottles on
the table; I do not remember ever seeing so many crowded on to one
table. There were wines from the Crimea, various liqueurs, and vodka.
During dinner the guests smoked perfumed cigarettes, and talked of their
family affairs and distant homes. It was difficult to realize that the
boundless plains of Siberia separated us from the banks of the Neva, for
the picture before me was so typically Russian, in all its variety of
shades and colours. I almost felt as if I were "in company with the
gentlemen" of Tourguenieff.
My visit to Mukden had certainly been full of interest. Not only the
town itself, its famous monuments, and its strangely superannuated
people, but the whole situation as it is at present, offers endless
scope for speculation. Chinese mandarins and Russian generals, Cossacks
and coolies, how oddly they are amalgamated in incoherent groups! What
developments may not the future have in store? Truly this is a
fascinating problem. Will Manchuria be more prosperous under the new
regime? Will the people be able to rise to a higher level? As I took
leave of the spot, now so desolate, where the mission settlement once
stood, I asked myself whether it would ever be rebuilt and whether men
would come forward to take the place of those martyrs who had sacrificed
their life in the cause of the orphans and forsaken children of China.
Casting one last lingering look upon the place, which I should probably
never see again, the dismal outline of the ruined bell-tower seemed to
rise up in pathetic protest against human intolerance and blind
persecution.
THE RETURN JOURNEY
The city of Mukden contained so much that was of interest to me, that my
stay there was prolonged beyond my original intentions. The Governor,
to whom I had related all the difficulties and discomforts of my
journey, very kindly placed a carriage at my disposal and gave me an
escort to see me safely back to the station. But perilous as the outward
journey had been, the return was no less full of various emotions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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