Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
The fourth wall is that of the Tartar city, which is almost square, and
has altogether ten gates--three to the north, three to the south, two to
the east, and two to the west. The wall is about seventeen miles long
and fifty feet high, and so wide that a dozen soldiers abreast can ride
on it comfortably. At its four corners are four three-storeyed
bastions with double-gabled, green-tiled roofs. Over the gates are
towers with similar roofs, and everywhere the same Imperial emblems, the
same dragons and ornamentation. Everything bears the stamp of
uniformity, embodying one canon of taste and one idea.
One can hardly imagine a grander and more sombre structure than the
symmetrical, harmonious walls of Pekin, and the more we see of them the
more we are charmed.
The wall of the Chinese town was added to that of the Tartar city to
form a parallelogram; it is similar to the former, though somewhat more
modest. To the north the three gates of the Tartar city serve as
entrance, while on its eastern and western sides are two gates
respectively, and to the south is the principal entrance to Pekin. Then
come the moats and ditches and the ubiquitous bridges. So any one
desiring to approach the throne must pass altogether through five
cities, seven gates, and five bridges, and in the Imperial city one must
walk through five halls and five courts ere the throne itself is
reached.
The conception of all this is as grand as it is masterly. Nowhere is the
idea of majesty enhanced so infinitely, and nowhere is power adorned to
such an extent as in China. The Winter Palace and Windsor Castle are
merely private dwellings, and even Versailles loses much of its
grandeur when compared to the Imperial Palace in Pekin.
It is only a few months since the Court returned from its protracted
exile to the deserted palaces; and what a brilliant and magnificent
spectacle that grand procession afforded on the long route through five
cities and so many gates and bridges! although the uniforms of the
soldiers must have looked rather shabby and the coats of the mandarins
somewhat worn. The pageant must have been one of the most striking ever
seen.
V
THE CHINESE CITY
The skill of the mechanics and industry of the Chinese artisans are
proverbial, and it is a never-ending source of interest to watch them,
or to study the commercial spirit of the people. I have lately seen a
good deal of the commercial life of Pekin, though I am more familiar
with that of Niu-chwang. The long rows of caravans, coming from the
western frontier and Tibet, and laden with merchandise peculiar to those
regions, are characteristic of the former.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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