_Body Clothing._--The _dhoti_ is a simple piece of cloth (cotton),
generally white. It is wound round the loins, the end passed between the
legs from front to back and tucked in at the waist behind (Plate II.
fig. 2). The small form of _dhoti_ worn by men of the lower class is
called _langoti_. It does not fall below mid-thigh. A Brahman's _dhoti_,
as also that of some other castes, reaches to a little below the knee; a
Rajput's to his ankles. The _dhoti_ is known under many names, _dhutia_,
_pitambar_, _lungi_, &c. In some parts of India half the dhoti only is
wound round the loins, the other half being thrown over the left
shoulder. Some upper classes of Hindus wear for coat the _kurta_; most
wear the _angharka_ (Plate II. fig. 1), a short _anga_ reaching to the
waist. It is also known as _kamri_, _baktari_, _badan_ or _bandi_.
Hindus wear the _angharkha_ or _anga_ as Mahommedans do, but whereas the
Mahommedan has the opening on the left the Hindu wears it on the right.
When the _kurta_ is worn it is worn under the _anga_. The _chaddar_
(_chadar_ or _dopatta_) is of various kinds. It is a piece of cotton
cloth 3 yds. long by 1 yd. wide. It is worn across the shoulders, or
wrapped round the body, but when bathing, round the loins. Hindus, both
men and women, wear ear-rings.
_The Brakminical thread_ (_janeo_) (Plate II. fig. 2) is a cord made of
twisted cotton prepared with many ceremonies. It is worn over the left
shoulder and hangs down to the right hip. It is of three strands till
the wearer is married, when it becomes six or nine. It is 96
handbreadths in length, and is knotted. Rajputs also wear this thread,
similar in make and length, but the knots are different.
Caste and sect marks also distinguish Hindus from each other.
_Women._--The hair is sometimes worn plaited (_chotì_), usually an odd
number of thin plaits made into one large one, falling down the back and
fastened at the end with ribbons. Another style is wearing it in a knot
after the ancient Grecian fashion; it is always worn smooth in front and
parted in the middle. Over the head is worn the _orhna_ or veil. The end
is thrown over the left shoulder in such a manner as to conceal the
breast. On the upper part of the body the _kurta_ is sometimes worn. A
bodice called _angiya_ is worn. This covers the breast and shoulder; it
has half sleeves, is very short, and is fastened at the back with
strings.
The skirt is called _lhenga_ or _ghagra_. It is worn mostly in Rajputana
hanging in full flounces to the knee or a little below. In Bengal,
Madras and Bombay Presidencies women do not wear a skirt, only a _choli_
and _sari_. This last is a long piece of cotton or silk cloth. Half is
draped round the waist and hangs to the feet in folds; the remainder is
passed over the head and thrown over the left shoulder (Plate II. fig.
4).
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