Of all the Hindu temples of Java the largest and most magnificent is
Boro-Budur, which ranks among the architectural marvels of the world.
It lies in the residency of Kedu, a little to the west of the Progo, a
considerable stream flowing south to the Indian Ocean. The place is
best reached by taking the steam-tram from Magelang or Jokjakarta to
the village of Muntilam Passar, where a conveyance may be hired.
Strictly speaking, Boro-Budur is not a temple but a hill, rising about
150 ft. above the plain, encased with imposing terraces constructed of
hewn lava-blocks and crowded with sculptures. The lowest terrace now
above ground forms a square, each side 497 ft. long. About 50 ft.
higher there is another terrace of similar shape. Then follow four
other terraces of more irregular contour. The structure is crowned by
a dome or cupola 52 ft. in diameter surrounded by sixteen smaller
bell-shaped cupolas. Regarded as a whole, the main design, to quote Mr
Sewell, may be described as "an archaic Indian temple, considerably
flattened and consisting of a series of terraces, surmounted by a
quasi-stupa capped by a dagoba." It was discovered by the engineer J.
W. Ijzerman in 1885 that the basement of the structure had been
earthed up before the building was finished, and that the lowest
retaining wall was completely concealed by the embankment. The
architects had evidently found that their temple was threatened with a
destructive subsidence; and, while the sculptors were still busy with
the decoration of the lower façades, they had to abandon their work.
But the unfinished bas-reliefs were carefully protected by clay and
blocks of stone and left in position; and since 1896 they are
gradually but systematically being exhumed and photographed by the
Dutch archaeologists, who, however, have to proceed with caution,
filling up one portion of the embankment before they go on to deal
with another. The subjects treated in this lowest enceinte are of the
most varied description, forming a picture-gallery of landscapes,
scenes of outdoor and domestic life, mingled with mythological and
religious designs. Among the genre class appear men shooting birds
with blow-pipe or bow and arrow, fishermen with rod or net, a man
playing a bagpipe, and so on. It would seem as if the architect had
intended gradually to wean the devotees from the things of this world.
When once they began to ascend from stage to stage of the temple-hill
they were introduced to the realities of religion; and by the time
they reached the dagoba they had passed through a process of
instruction and were ready, with enlightened eyes, to enter and behold
the image of Buddha, symbolically left imperfect, as beyond the power
of human art to realize or portray. From basement to summit the whole
hill is a great picture bible of the Mahayana creed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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