After the accession of Abdur Rahman in 1880 the city underwent great
changes. The Bala Hissar was destroyed and has never since been entirely
rebuilt, and a fortified cantonment at Sherpur (one side of which was
represented by the historic Bemaru ridge) had taken the place of the old
earthworks of the British occupation of 1842 which were constructed on
nearly the same site. The city streets were as narrow and evil-smelling,
the surrounding gardens as picturesque and attractive, and the wealth of
fruit was as great, as they had been fifty years previously. The amir,
however, effected many improvements. Kabul is now connected by
well-planned and metalled roads with Afghan Turkestan on the west, with
the Oxus and Bokhara on the north, and with India on the east. The road
to India was first made by British and is now maintained by Afghan
engineers. The road southwards to Ghazni and Kandahar was always
naturally excellent and has probably needed little engineering, but the
general principle of road-making in support of a military advance has
always been consistently maintained, and the expeditions of Kabul troops
to Kafiristan have been supported by a very well graded and
substantially constructed road up the Kunar valley from Jalalabad to
Asmar, and onwards to the Bashgol valley of Kafiristan. The city ways
have been improved until it has become possible for wheeled vehicles to
pass, and the various roads connecting the suburbs and the city are
efficiently maintained. A purely local railway has also been introduced,
to assist in transporting building material. The buildings erected by
Abdur Rahman were pretentious, but unmarked by any originality in design
and hardly worthy representation of the beauty and dignity of Mahommedan
architecture. They included a new palace and a durbar hall, a bridge
across the river and embankment, a pavilion and garden laid out around
the site of Baber's tomb overlooking the Chardeh valley; and many other
buildings of public utility connected with stud arrangements, the
manufacture of small arms and ammunition, and the requirements of what
may be termed a wholesale shop under European direction, besides
hospitals, dispensaries, bazaars, &c. The new palace is within an
entrenchment just outside the city. It is enclosed in a fine garden,
well planted with trees, where the harem serai (or ladies' apartments)
occupies a considerable space. The public portion of the buildings
comprise an ornamental and lofty pavilion with entrances on each side,
and a high-domed octagonal room in the centre, beautifully fitted and
appointed, where public receptions take place. The durbar hall, which is
a separate building, is 60 yards long by 20 broad, with a painted roof
supported by two rows of pillars. But the arrangement of terraced
gardens and the lightly constructed pavilion which graces the western
slopes of the hills overlooking Chardeh are the most attractive of these
innovations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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