LIVONIA, or LIVLAND (Russian, _Liflandia_), one of the three Baltic
provinces of Russia, bounded W. by the Gulf of Riga, N. by Esthonia, E.
by the governments of St Petersburg, Pskov and Vitebsk, and S. by
Courland. A group of islands (1110 sq. m.) at the entrance of the Gulf
of Riga, of which Oesel, Mohn, Runo and Paternoster are the largest,
belong to this government. It covers an area of 18,160 sq. m., but of
this the part of Lake Peipus which belongs to it occupies 1090. Its
surface is diversified by several plateaus, those of Haanhof and of the
Livonian Aa having an average elevation of 400 to 700 ft., while several
summits reach 800 to 1000 ft. or more. The edges of the plateaus are
gapped by deep valleys; the hilly tract between the Dvina and its
tributary the Livonian Aa has received, from its picturesque narrow
valleys, thick forests and numerous lakes, the name of "Livonian
Switzerland." The plateau of Odenpäh, drained by tributaries of the
Embach river, which flows for 93 m. from Lake Virz-yärvi into Lake
Peipus, occupies an area of 2830 sq. m., and has an average elevation of
500 ft. More than a thousand lakes are scattered over Livonia, of which
that of Virz-yärvi, having a surface of 106 sq. m. (115 ft. above
sea-level), is the largest. Marshes and peat-bogs occupy one-tenth of
the province. Of the numerous rivers, the Dvina, which flows for 90 m.
along its frontier, the Pernau, Salis, Livonian Aa and Embach are
navigable.
The Silurian formation which covers Esthonia, appears in the northern
part of Livonia, the remainder of the province consisting of Devonian
strata. The whole is overlaid with glacial deposits, sometimes 400 ft.
thick. The typical bottom moraine, with erratics from Finland, extends
all over the country. Glacial furrows, striae and elongated troughs are
met with everywhere, running mostly from north-west to south-east, as
well as _asar_ or _eskérs_, which have the same direction. Sand-dunes
cover large tracts on the shores of the Baltic. No traces of marine
deposits are found higher than 100 or 150 ft. above the present
sea-level. The soil is not very fertile. Forests cover about two-fifths
of the surface. The climate is rather severe. The mean temperatures are
43° F. at Riga (winter 23°, summer 63°) and 40° at Yuriev. The winds are
very variable; the average number of rainy and snowy days is 146 at Riga
(rainfall 24.1 in.). Fogs are not uncommon.
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