England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
We cross clay, rock and gravel slides at a giddy height. To look down
gives one an uncontrollable dizziness, to make the head swim and the
view unsteady, even with men of tried nerve. I do not think that I
can ever forget that terrible walk; it was the greatest trial I ever
experienced. We are from five to eight hundred feet high on a path of
from ten to fifteen inches wide and at some points almost obliterated,
with slopes above and below us so steep that a stone would roll into
the torrent in the abyss below. There are no trees or branches or twigs
which we can grip to aid us in our advance on the narrow, precarious
footing. We become more sensible to the difficulties we encounter
each step as we go forward. The sun came out with unusual power; our
day’s effort has caused no little of a strain, and the perspiration is
running from us like water. I, myself felt as if I had been dragged
through a brook, for I was without a dry shred on me. About three
miles from the mouth of the Kicking-Horse Valley we met Major Rogers
and Major Hurd. At the same time we obtained the first uninterrupted
look upon the Selkirk range. From this point to the Columbia the trail
improved, but it still ran at a great height. We had not, however, got
out of our difficulties, for we came upon a hornets’ nest. The leading
horses were stung and darted forward. To have been attacked by the
whole colony on so narrow a path might have caused serious disaster, so
we abandoned the trail and traced a new route for ourselves to avoid
that which we were following, and thus escaped the dilemma.
The Kicking-Horse Valley turns into the valley of the Columbia River,
which at the junction is some twelve miles wide from peak to peak. Our
train has now travelled through the whole valley of the Kicking-Horse
from its summit to the flats of the Columbia, a distance of about
fifty miles, with a descent of 2,700 feet; the average fall is about
fifty-seven feet to the mile, the first six miles however, give a
descent of twelve hundred feet, being two hundred feet per mile; the
last ten miles the river falls at an average of sixty feet per mile,
leaving on the intervening thirty-two miles an average fall of thirty
feet per mile.
Arrived at Major Rogers’ camp, I own I was weary and foot-sore
after our frightful march of many miles over rough ground high up
on the mountain side, over a path every step of which was a renewed
difficulty. I was somewhat indemnified by knowing that the horses had
travelled without a mishap. I thought of the _Mauvais-pas_ at Chamouni,
which, extending only a few hundred yards, is thought to be a feat in
its way, even with a special guide leading the traveller, holding his
hand; but the _Mauvais-pas_ of the Kicking-Horse Valley extended for
miles, and they were only passed over from the very desperation of our
circumstances. Having entered on the journey we could not turn back and
we had to face the difficulties in our front cost what it would.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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