England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
In the first hours of our journey we make fair progress. We are now
far up the mountain side, and here and there we come upon the path of
the bear and the cariboo. Generally these trails do not run in the
direction we wish to take, but if they incline in the least towards
the West we gladly turn to them. They are gone over with so much more
ease than the tangled forest, that however much they prolong the
distance it is a saving to follow their windings. The cariboo paths,
however, too frequently lead to recesses in the mountains or to alder
swamps near the river. An attempt to systematize our travelling was
made to-day. Hitherto our rests had been irregular. Our halts were long
and we were drenched with perspiration; we got chilled, so we laid
down the rule to walk for twenty minutes and rest for five. Dr. Grant
is appointed the quartermaster-general for the occasion, with absolute
authority to time our halts and our marches by the sound of a whistle,
and when he sees fit to call special halts after extraordinary efforts.
Our period of progress for twenty minutes often seems very long, and we
wearily struggle through the broken ground and clamber over obstacles,
eagerly listening for the joyful sound to halt proclaimed by the
whistle. It was a system of forced marches and answered admirably,
for we made more progress in this way than on any previous occasion.
We have another experience of an alder swamp, possibly not quite so
formidable as that of yesterday, for we did not sink deeper than the
knee. But we had another phase of experience. We reached the lower
canyon of the Ille-celle-waet and climbed from rock to rock, grasping
roots and branches, scrambling up almost perpendicular ascents,
swinging ourselves occasionally like experienced acrobats and feeling
like the clown in the pantomime as he tells the children, “here I am
again.” At some places the loads had to be unpacked and the men had
to draw each other up, by clinched hands, from one ledge to another.
Then we had another chapter of the Kicking-Horse Valley experience:
passing cautiously along a steep slope, where a false step was certain
disaster; creeping under a cascade, over a point of precipitous rock
and surmounting obstacles, which, unless we had to go forward or to
starve, would have been held to be insurmountable. But we persevere
and overcome them, and reach our camping ground for the night, all of
us showing traces of our day’s work. We select for our camp a small
_plateau_ of about half an acre, overlooking the river, which passes in
a foaming torrent through a deep canyon with perpendicular rocky sides,
which twists in gigantic irregularities. Such places are only seen in
these mountains. The packmen give them the name of “box canyons.” A
dead tree furnishes us with fuel, and we obtain water by letting a man
down with a sling half way to the river’s edge to a spot where there is
an excellent spring. The water of the river was objectionable, being
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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