England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
We imagined that we were making the best of starts. We all started
forward in Indian file with that springy gait which marks men having
confidence in themselves. The guide, however, led us to his own camp.
He did so without explanations or remark. He entered his wigwam and we
remained outside. The proceeding was inexplicable until we learned that
he had to repair his moccasins before he could start. We halted three
quarters of an hour, while the squaw deliberately plied her awl and
leather thong, the Indian in the meanwhile sitting motionless, smoking
his pipe and looking into the embers of the fire. We could only imitate
his patience and await the result. At length in the same silent way he
re-appeared, and started without comment on the trail. We submissively
followed. The thought crossed my mind that in this case knowledge was
power.
Our guide took us by a circuitous route round the shore of the “big
eddy,” avoiding a mile of exceedingly painful walking, which the
Kamloops men had passed over last night.
We find our way over ground almost clear of trees. Some years back
the country had been ravaged by one of the great forest fires, often
extending over immense distances. The trees had not again grown, and
we rapidly reach the green wood in the pass, where we take our mid-day
meal.
We start again, skirting a large marsh. It seemed to us at first to be
a beaver meadow. It was full of water holes, skunk cabbage and deep
black muck. McLean and his men had waded through this bog up to their
middle for the greater part of the way. It was the one part of their
return they most dreaded to encounter. Do any of my readers know what
it is to wade through a marsh of deep oozy mud, covered with stinking
water? It is not an experience they may long for. The path we pass
along is the one taken by the Indians for carrying cariboo and game
over the mountains. The various wild berries we saw on the route were
unusually large. They more resembled small grapes in size than the
ordinary berry, and were pleasant to the taste. There was an abundance
of black huckleberries and blackberries. Is not this presence of a
luxurious growth of wild growing fruit an indication that garden fruits
might find their home in these sheltered valleys?
We are fast ascending towards the summit. The valley leading to the
Eagle pass is about a quarter of a mile wide, walled in by parallel
mountains generally wooded to the top. We pass through a vast grove of
fine timber, mostly hemlock, fit for purposes of railway construction.
We cross several times the stream we are following, and about five
o’clock encamp on its eastern side. The site we select is the freest
we could find from the formidable devil’s clubs. Cedars, four feet in
diameter, rise up around us like the columns of a lofty temple. We
counted some forty or fifty in a circle of a radius of a hundred feet,
and a striking appearance they presented.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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