England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
As the morrow will be Sunday, Dr. Grant suggests that we should start
as usual, and that he should hold a service when we arrive. Accordingly
the following morning Mr. Hunter and he start off on foot in advance.
We were so eager to reach the waggon road that all were up and at
breakfast before sunrise and were under way as its early rays were
peering over the mountains where, last night, the full moon came up.
The sky was without a cloud. The trail was so imperfect and circuitous
that, although the distance was given as from four to five miles, it
took us from six until about twelve to reach the encampment of Mr. G.
B. Wright, the road contractor. It was a tented village. Our hostess,
Mrs. Wright, received us under a large tent, appearing to us with an
additional charm as being the first white woman we had seen since we
left Morley on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. One of our
first luxuries was the use of soap and hot water, and certainly we all
required it. After we had partaken of the bounteous hospitality of Mrs.
Wright, Dr. Grant held a service, at which about forty men attended,
together with the only woman of our race within a long distance--our
hostess. The men wore the usual long beard, bearing no signs of the
scissors, and their dress was rough, but they all listened with marked
attention and reverence.
In the afternoon we left this canvass town, which comprised some sixty
tents of all sizes. We were accommodated with a spring waggon and were
driven some sixteen miles over an excellent road. The whippletree gave
way more than once, but was speedily repaired by the help of a short
stick and some cod line. At half-past five we reached Shuswap Lake,
where a steamer was waiting for us, Albert having ridden ahead to
detain it. We were soon on board and steamed through the Sicamouse
Narrows, about three hundred feet wide with about six to eight feet of
water, as the last rays of the sun were lighting the lake. The moon
rose and we could see the country around us with the water channels
from every point of view. The shore is still in a state of nature,
without a settlement. There is not even a house at the steamboat
landing, and the supplies for the waggon road construction parties find
shelter from the rain under canvas. The steamer is about a hundred
feet in length, with a stern wheel for navigating shallow waters. It
was eleven o’clock before we turned in, and I could not but contrast
our present mode of travel with that of a few days back, and it seemed
almost like a dream as I thought of our advance from the first summit.
We had still, however, a most unpleasant recollection of our wearing
journey through the mountains; the prickles of the devil’s club in
their poisonous effects had become a great annoyance to many of us.
Indeed, our swollen hands had to be wrapped in oatmeal poultices.
In one case the swelling and pain were really serious, and as a
consequence at least one of our party suffered from loss of sleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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