England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
Monday came and with it our determination to start by the steamer for
New Westminster. We gratefully said good-bye to our polished host
and hostess, whose kindness reminded me of what I had heard of the
hospitality of the old Knickerbocker families. During our stay at Yale
it was hard to believe that we were not in some hospitable mansion on
the banks of the Hudson. We take with us a dug-out canoe and a crew of
Indians to paddle us on our journey when we deem it advisable to leave
the boat. My purpose is to proceed by steamer to the point which on
Saturday night I reached by hand-car and then take to the canoe. I will
thus be enabled fully to examine the whole line in the valley of the
Fraser. The steamer is by no means of little account on these waters,
to judge by the passengers that she carries and the places she stops
at. Our landings are frequent, to receive or discharge freight, cattle
and passengers.
We reach the spot where, with my son, I go on board the canoe. We
arrive at Harrison River at half-past three. I was met at this point
by Mr. Brophy, also an old Intercolonial friend. Mr. Wilmot, who has
hitherto kindly accompanied us, goes on shore. We ourselves continue
our descent of the Fraser. The three Indians paddle at a good pace down
the Nicomen Slough to a point off Sumas. It is after six and twilight
is coming on, so we find our way through a cross channel to the main
river. We believe that any other course would be hazardous, so we
follow the stream to the point where Dr. Grant was to leave the steamer
and where we expect to meet him. The Fraser is wide at this spot and
the current swift but we keep the centre of the river. The Indians
continue to paddle briskly. We float down the current very rapidly.
The air is much warmer than we have yet experienced it, both when we
were in the mountains and since we reached Kamloops. Night comes on,
and although there is no moon the sky is without a cloud and the stars
shine brightly, giving us enough light to guide our canoe. We still
keep to the middle of the river where the stream is the strongest.
About eight o’clock we see a light on the shore towards which we
paddle, and as we approach we hear the well known voice of Dr. Grant.
We find supper waiting for us for which we are indebted to Mrs.
Perkins, who keeps a workman’s boarding house. But we had a mile
further to paddle to the engineers’ camp, where we are to find
beds. They receive us as hospitably as engineers always receive men
accredited to them. They insist on me taking the one stretcher they
have; the rest of the party find rest on the floor.
We were up early, for although we had come sixty miles yesterday we
were anxious to continue our journey. A heavy fog made it impossible
to leave before nine. We paddle for an hour and a half until we reach
Stave River, where we land. There is a fine view of Mount Baker, forty
miles distant, when the weather is clear, but there is too much mist in
the air to-day for us to see it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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